I want to remove the thermal reactor and air pump from my 1980 RX7 and add an RB header system, and exhaust.

Once I remove the TR & pump, are there any hoses, wires, ports or sensors that I have to remove/plug, and what size belt do I replace the old one with?

Basically, before I tear everything apart, what must I be prepared to do in order to make sure my '7 runs right afterwards.

Thanks.

 

Others will add here - but
-the RB system comes with the necessary blocking plates (if you order the complete kit, not pieces separately), of which there are 2 I believe. The RB site is quite specific which pieces you need.

-with the air pump gone, you will need a different belt to run the water pump, and Pineappleracing.com's yoohoo belt is the only one made specially to do this: $15 IIRC - buy 2 since they don't last forever...
-recommend new exhaust hangers, at least the rubber do-nut ones.
-you'll need a 3/8" angle/jointed 14mm nut (got mine at Sears) to get at the UPPER TR nuts
-Again, pineapple offers some sweet copper, heat/corrosion resistant exhaust nuts for header and various joints along exhaust - rather than use your ratty old hardware - I went with new stainless fasteners through out for the rest, including the exhaust shield hdwr.

- you'll also have the option here of pulling the rats nest (emissions) of the top of the block. A LOT of info here on the Forum re: the FB (81 and later) RX7, but precious little on the 79-80 SA with the reactor systems. I can share what I have scavenged if you PM me.

- I understand the carb may require minor adjustment since carb settings are normally richer than-needed to assist in emissions burn in the reactor. This can be dialed back with the header. Again there is specific info here, maybe in the archives (if I new, I'd tell

best of luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

2 or 3 blocking plates for SA, depending on if you have an EGR or not.
ACV blockoff plate (side of manifold)
Air Pipe blockoff (rear of manifold)
EGR blockoff plate (top of center plate)

If sticking with the stock air cleaner, you'll want to cap the big bottom tube that fed the air pump, and the smaller return line that ran from the ACV.

Unless you keep your stock heat sheilds, you can't use the heat tube that went between it and the air cleaner, so you probably want to gut the trap door and block off the bottom inlet.

Not much of the rat's nest has anything to do with the ACV, on the 80. There's a vacuum line from the top of the ACV that can be capped off. & I'm fairly sure the yellow solenoid on the carb becomes useless, but am working from memory and am not sure.

Stock-tuned carb into headers will make your eyes water without the TR.

 

When you are ready to re-tune the carb (after installation of the RB system) go to

www.sterlingmetalworks.com

Sterling has put together an excellent writeup on how to tune the carb for proper idle mixture and idle speed (stock carbs too, not just Sterling carbs which are highly modified Nikki carbs). There are also many other sections to help understand how the carb functions, how to increase performance, etc.

Sterling's site should be mandatory reading for anybody running a carb on their rotary.



.

 

I've never done this before, and have never messed with a manifold or carburetor.

So I could use any photos, diagrams, videos or instructions that would show me what to replace, plug, or adjust, would be greatfully appreciated.

Please feel free to PM anything that might be of benefit.

Thanks.

 

The system comes with pretty good instructions from what I remember. The only advice I can give you is to get a can of PB Blaster and start soaking the nuts on the exhaust manifold long before you try taking them off. Also, get a wire brush and clean the exposed threads before trying to remove the nuts. It will make a big difference when it comes time to remove them.

 

These are the 2 block off plates that you need to do what you want you want.