project7s

iTrader: (5)

ok 1980 sa guys I need your help on this one. im trying to put all the a/c stuff back on my 80 ls I've came to the conclusion due to the type of fittings being flared it has the dealer installed air. the problem is most of the parts stores around me list the drier for the system yet when they go to order it, it says no longer available. however they can get one for an 81, which has the same fittings. the problem is it has some kind of sending unit looking thing on the top of it. so would this one work and just leave that unit thing unhooked? thanks

arran

Might be the pressure switch, is there one elsewhere in the system already existing?

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

That would be the hi/lo pressure cut out switch. Is there one somewhere else along the lines? If there is you can leave that one unhooked or unscrew it and cap it with the proper type plug(seals with an o-ring I believe). If there isn't another one somewhere, there should be a pair of wires for one someplace along the lines. Then you can extend the wires to reach that one if necessary. I have seen them in different locations through the years. IIRC they are at or after the drier.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

According to my mazda service info when the revised AC came out for the new 81 Fbs, that AC kit was approved to install in the 1980 SAs. Now whether that reverse install continued into the later FB line-up of AC models? Considering how little was changed to the chassis (firewall, inner fenders etc) and minor changes to electrics in dash it would not be a stretch to think that the 81 AC bits should pretty well fit into place. The AC came with its own relays and such, and the SA fan harness is set to actuate the AC - note the "AC" button built into the fan speed dial....
???

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Normally the reciever/dryer has two fittings, 180 degrees apart sitting on top of the canister with
glass viewport to see the fluid state. Replacements are available that fit the 80 AC hard lines, I
had one ordered up from CarQuest and test fitted the lines to it. I'll be picking it up soon. The
replacements do not have the glass viewer in them.

We need pictures of what you have to really help you out. I do know there are 2 switches wired
in series with the AC button. When you press the button that allows a signal to the relay over
on the drivers side by the brake master. The 2 switches are a temperature one (under the dash
I think) and the pressure switch normally in the hardline attached to the smaller firewall AC
connection. This swicth is wired into a small loom that had 2 wires that stretches across the
back of the engine compartment and over into the relay box. From there is a plug and a single
spade connector that goes into the harness and off to the compressor.

I'm a little rusty on some of these connections myself as I am doing the same project and
putting my AC back in. I was thinking about writing it up since the SAs are so different in a lot
of ways from the FBs.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

FWIW, my 80 AC system has flare fittings and no pressure switch anywhere in the engine bay.

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

That's interesting. Is there a blow off valve on the rec/drier? I think the early versions came with at least those for safety, but if yours has been replaced it may not be there.
The hi/lo cut switch is there to prevent hoses or coil blow out in the event of overcharging or a blockage, and to prevent compressor damage if there is not enough refrigerant in the system to move the oil.
The last drier I bought for my 81 has only an inlet and outlet, no other ports or sightglass. I didn't end up needing it so it sits on a shelf. I think I have an old hard line with an inline hi/lo switch to use if necessary.
I have seen all variations of driers, some with 4 ports and a sight glass and all listed for an Rx-7. I always look at the inlet/outlet before buying to make sure it's correct. That last one I bought, the salesman (store manager) would not let me look at them because it requires unsealing the drier. I guess it's a good thing because I wouldn't want to buy one that had been opened.

project7s

iTrader: (5)

Thanks DD you beat me to it I was just about to say that I couldn't find a hi lo switch anywhere.
Tim you may want to check the in and out fittings on that drier you got from carquest. The one they could order for me did not have flared fittings which is what the 80 dealer installed models use.
The one that was on my car looks just like a normal drier with a 3/8 flared male inlet and outlet 180 of each other with the sight glass on top. Which nobody can get anymore.
Just for the heck of it I looked up a drier for an 81 which parts stores can get and it has all the same specs as I need same 3/8 flared male fittings and all except on the side of the sqaure box the the fittings come out of there's that hi-lo switch.
So since an 80 doesn't have a hi-lo switch nor the wireing for it. Is there any reason I cant use that drier and just leave it unhooked or would it being unhooked cause the drier to not let freon pass through? I understand about how its there to protect against overcharging and what not but does it stay closed or something unless it is hooked up? Thanks

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

It only controls electric current passing through it, not any flow of refrigerant. Ya, like I said earlier you can use it as is or find a plug to replace it.

project7s

iTrader: (5)

Ok, thanks I really apperciate it, hopefully now I can get some cold air to blow in my face lol

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

There may well be a hi/lo switch inside the evaporator box under the dash; I've never had mine apart and the 80 wiring diagram does not cover all of the AC system, only the relay and throttle opener solenoid. But there's none in the engine bay plumbing, that I'm sure of.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Mine is an 80 and I think its factory installed air. The fittings are not flared, they are the ones with a
collar and orings that fit inside of the opening of the attachment point with nuts that tighten them
up just like a modern day AC system on my BMW.

I bet the port or dealer installed systems had the flares and left out the pressure switch. It would
be cool to know the history of how AC was done in those days and how to id the installation.

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

I remember reading on an AC forum years ago and one of the old experienced AC techs was talking about fittings. He said there was never a problem with the flared fittings and the manufacturers changed to the type with o-rings(IDK what they're called, I probably learned it 5 times). So I think it was an industry wide change.

Yes it would be nice to have good source of information on our cars AC parts and history.

Here's a photo of some stuff I've collected. Hi/lo switches, one from a GSL-SE. Below those, 2 blow off valves. The one standing came off a 1st gen I just can't recall what year. I'm thinking it was an S1 that never had the drier changed but can't say for sure. I'm thinking the S1's must have all got them for safety but who knows. To the right of the BOV's are 2 plugs that were used to cap a port on the receiver/drier.

project7s

iTrader: (5)

tim since yours doesn't use the flared fittings you are correct your on of the lucky ones to have the factory ac which you can still get parts for.
I would also be interested in learning why some cars got factory air and others dealer air. mostly cause my car is an 80 ls and from every thing ive read shows that ac was part of the ls package which seems weird to me that it has the flared fittings indicating dealer installed air?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

The dealer- or port-installed air was a dodge to avoid a tariff charged on imported cars w/AC, I recall reading somewhere.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Heres a fun factoid. I'm trying to get new AC lines made. Turns out the fittings are Metric, no
biggie I think. Tried to get local CarQuest to makeup a set and they couldn't source enough metric
fittings of the right size (verified by bringing in the compressor to make sure things screwed
together correctly). Called a place the CarQuest guys referred to that should be able to make
any vehicle AC lines. Tell the guy what I want and he's says, "Is it metric?", I say "Yeah", he says
"We don't do any metric".

So I scratched my head and went out and tried to figure out the exact metric dimensions of
the connectors. I have a cheapie caliber and a metric thread pitch measuring tool.

On the compressor there are 2 fittings; a large and smaller one. I assume ones for the suction
and the other is for the high pressure side (smaller one I think). Anyway I measured the outer
diameter on the threads and the thread pitches. Heres what I got:

Large connector: ~22mm with a 1.75 thread pitch (M22 - 1.75)
Small connector: ~19mm with a 1.5 thread pitch (M18 - 1.5)

I say approximately because this is a HF caliber. Anyway the large connector with a 1.75
thread pitch is not a common size. If I go to the coldhose.com site the common thread pitch
for larger connections like this is 1.5 or 2.0 no 1.75 mentioned. I left a note with those folks
to see what they think. Maybe I'll start a thread about this whole reinstalling an SA AC since
it appears to be a lot more involved to get new hoses than I thought.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I'd follow such a thread with interest - I hope to be reinstalling my AC some day and new hoses would make great sense; mine are original to the car & can't possibly still be good. I'd also like the top one just a scoch longer for better routing.

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

When I got the fittings for mine they were referred to as #6 #8 #10 IIRC. I never checked the thread or specified metric or not. Oh, and they're called beadlock, I just relearned it, again
See here: AC Source - Automotive Air Conditioning, AC Parts Tools Equipment Kits - HOSE FITTINGS(BEADLOCK)

It would be the easiest to send your old hoses to ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment. to have them redone. That's the route I wish I would have taken. Or not even bother, using the theory that the old hose is so oil saturated that the smaller molecules of whatever new refrigerant they weren't designed for can't leak past. That being said there are some fittings by Aeroquip for barrier hose that only require a plier like tool to put the clamps on (I've done it with needle nose).
I have used both ACkits and ACsource for parts and they both may make hose sets but I'm pretty sure ACkits does.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

The hose is different too. Normally the largest hoses are #10 and #8, the ones on my car are
labeled #12 and #14. Just another weird difference in this setup.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I was digging through a box of old RX-7 manuals I got from an old Mazda mechanic and ran across two factory AC manuals. Here are some pics. I'll get some PDF file made this weekend. The blue manual has a printed year of 1981 and the dealer RX-7 AC install manual has a picture of a 79/80 center console. Hope this helps someone. There is a bunch of technical data in the blue one. The install manual has the step-by-step bolt-by-bolt process of how to install the entire AC system at the dealership.

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

Nice find!

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I want! PM sent!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

^^ I could really use a copy of those PDFs too, KC

project7s

iTrader: (5)

hey tim thats another think with the dealer or port installed ac is the flared fittings are standard and not metric.
ok and for my blonde question for the day does anyone know the which way the freon flows? is it coming from the firewall to the drier, then the condesor?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I have the dealer install manual scanned and sent to t_g_farrell. I also sent a copy to WebMaster at foxed.ca. Not sure if he'll post it or not.