JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

I have my old engine on a table in my garage, I've taken ever piece in my engine comparment and cleaned and repaired EVERY thing. But I've never touched the motor itself. I was told that it isn't hard to do, and there is a video on how to do this. Do anybody know what it's called and maybe where to find it. Second the engine died because the seals that keep compression out of the cooling system blew. Apex seals are fine. BUT I want to change them anyways. My plan is to order stronger seals from mazda (racing seals) and have the housings sent out for porting. Meanwhile I might polish the motor still unsure.

stinkfist

Do it yourself. These engines are extremely easy to rebuild. Much easier than a piston motor. Others may disagree but there is no reason to use any seals other than stock. These seals are very high quality and as good are better than anything on the market. Save the money and get stock. If you get a factory shop manual you will have no problem building your motor.
Just make sure you get a BIG port

Mike

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

www.atkinsrotary.com sells the video.

i was thinking of buying it myself and picking up an old 12a. they say that some of the part numbers and seal placements differ but all-in-all, it's the same process, so i'm kind of curious.

portugese thug, eh? have any family in cape cod?

-brad

MyRxBad

Hey Jimmy, heres the website w/the video your talking about.
Atkins Rotary sells this video...

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/video.html

peejay

They are sooooooo easy to rebuild. If you reuse any seals make sure you mark them somehow so that they go back on their rotor in the same place.

By the way the "race" apex seals (carbon-aluminum) aren't stronger, they're a lot lighter so they seal better at super-high revs. They wear out a LOT faster than iron seals, they don't seal too well at low RPM, and they are more likely to break from detonation. If you're going to keep it under 8500 the stock ones are just fine.

Two things I recommend having (besides a nice work area, parts scrubbing bin, etc.) are a big set of feeler gauges and a quality micrometer, not a cheapo $20 plastic one from Sears.

smnc

You may want to consider these:
http://www.hurleyrotary.com/HME_Long..._Tip_Seals.htm

I'm thinking of getting them installed when I rebuild next year. You'd have to get your rotors machined to accept bigger seals, abd they're a bit pricey, but they're supposed to be a lot better at sealing.

Just a thought...

-Spencer

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, I have to decide about what kinda port job I should get I have some factors to consider. And most of the porting is compatable with the stock seals. I've heard of porcelan seals too. Thanks for the help guys. Since I'll probably be tearing the motor apart I may as well make it as powerful as I can, while keeping it a daily driver.

r_ed_line53

A few factors to check out;

-chips and grooves in your rotor housings and rotors
-do a leak down test on the housings, making sure that it's not cracked.

your housings will be the most important thing that you will to make a decision on.



more power to you and good luck,

car 53

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man, First the engine needs to be degreased and disassembled, and for sure, like you said eveything needs to be closely looked at. That would be horrible if after all those hours of work and not start!! I would chuck that motor into the lake!! LOL