I know some of you have 13 second FB's. I want to know what will it take for me to run 13's in my stock 1985 GSL-SE. I don't have all that much rotary experence but in most cases its pretty easy to shave the first 3 seconds off of a cars 1/4 mile. Is it just a matter of getting a less restrictive intake and exhaust? Or will I need to port? How much HP do I need to put a stock weight RX-7 into 13's? Any information will be useful! But please be specific!

Thanks

 

ditto on that, but for a sa. give us the know how gurus

 

Bridge-port. You might be able to hit 13's with an extend-port if you do some weight reduction.

 

you will definatly want to port your engine. turbo will help too.

right now i am in the mid 14's , and still have the stock intake. i am hoping for high 13's once i put in a new intake, electric fan, and direct fire system.

 

well if you search you can find my 14 sec slips posted,
i dont have that much work done,
but im sure this will do the job.


streetport
new carb and intake or yaw power carb
rip off all a/c components and emissions junk
go direct fire with msd 6a or 6al
full racing beat road race exhaust
upgrade to electric fan
street strip hd clutch
street strip hd pressure plate
lightweight steel flywheel
lsd or full posi diff
good springs and shocks
a little weight reduction

and i couldnt see why you wouldnt be in the 13's with those mods.

 

I ran a 14.9 in my GSL-SE couple years ago, with slipping clutch.
RB full exhaust, Cone filter, MSD, ColdAir Box, timing advance, TB Mod, Electric Fan , No A/C, PS, Smog and more stuff, bout 2440lbs
your going to need a ported motor, or a car with no interior, just a seat and steering wheel.

 

your best bet, if you can afford it, is poting... i have a full interior, and this is my daily driven car, yet with minimial mods i am running a 14.6 with a horrible launch...

jeremy, as far as sa's go. do the same stuff that the 12a fb's do. we have a different transmission, but engines are almost identical. plus SA's have the weight advantage (they are like 50 or 100 lbs less) you would want an electric fan, directfire ignition, free flowing intake and exhaust, remove a/c if you can live without it.

 

I don't want to lose the A/C or do any weight reduction. Money is a factor so I think it will have to be kept naturally asperated.

 

yeh, mine's mainly for autox but hell my 91 camry has the same stock 1/4mile. i was a bit depressed. how hard is it to port your engine? i saw a couple places with patterns you can buy. i have a dremel and a decent hand but i don't want to disassemble the engine.

 

If you wanna port, the motor has to come apart No other way...

Also porting is kinda intricate, you can either end up with a good motor or a doorstop, i tried it once and failed miserably So make sure you understand it, I didnt and tried it anyways, and found out I had no business doing it

 

practice makes perfect,

get some used no good housings and go to twon,

then make some ports for up to three engines,

surely you will have a good engine port job in those parts somewhere,

on ebay right now there selling a 12a street ported
housing only,
get it while its hot.

 

This may sound harsh but without weight reduction it will cost a lot of money to get 13's from a GSL-SE. IIRC the -SE weighed about, what, 2600lb new? With driver then that's 2750-2800lb.

To lob that into the 13's, and let's say 13.75 is "in the 13's", but to get a 13.75 out of let's say 2775lb will require about 210hp if you're a good driver. To get 210hp N/A means you will need at least a street port, good induction, and a somewhat loud exhaust. In addition to the other mods you will need, like possibly deeper rearend gearing, a stronger clutch, new trannies every so often , etc.

Now let's cut the weight by 200lb. 195 or so HP. Still up there but now you can have a more streetable exhaust on it. Can we find another 100lb to lose? If we can, then you'll only need 188hp. This is doable with a stock ported engine and some tricks, but the exhaust will need to be fairly loud to help out the tiny stock ports.

There are some very simple ways you can cut the weight of the car. (I got my SA down to 2210lb and I still had my A/C!) First, before you go to the track, ditch the spare tire and jack. Also the passenger seat, and the rather heavy mat that goes underneath the rear carpeting. Clean all of the junk out of the car. Time it so you only have a gallon or two of fuel left in the tank when you get to the track - you should have just enough to make your runs, then get to the nearest gas station. (Every gallon of gas is seven pounds, therefore a full tank of fuel is nearly 100lb!)

BTW - that SA of mine did a best of 15.1, and would run 15.2's all day long, and never made more power than a stock GSL-SE. Weight reduction and practice. I'm certain that with a few more simple tweaks and a better fuel pump it would have done high 14's. Definitely low 14's maybe high 13's if I would have broke down and shelled out the cash for better induction

 

Dang, looks harder than I thought... Though I would be happy with even say 14.5 w/out any weight reduction.

 

ditto. mat and all the poofy sound insulation out. the sa bins are useless if you want to even try to get to them, gone. gummed up fuel tank, gone. oh **** need that. driver seat replaced with a fiberglass seat. passenger seat, out for the run. ac, ack its a sports car, speed keeps it cool. wanna get hardcore, drill things like the seat frame rails to reduce material. stereos don't really weigh that much unless you're competing with the airlines on decibels.

 

SA's don't have bins I would have removed the sheetmetal coverplate but I needed it for my camera mount.

I was consdering swapping the driver's seat out for something with more lateral support, and i was surprised to find that the cheap, common fiberglass buckets not only sit higher up than the stock seats, but are heavier as well. My attention is now focused on Kirkey Intermediates, which may or may not require the backs to be bolted to a rollbar for proper support - it depends on who you talk to. I had a chance to sit in one in a Spec Miata - it's like being bear-hugged by your car! There is no way at all that you'll flop around in one of those. I Want!

 

um i doubt they weigh less then most sparcos. and the sa's do have bins. i didn't think so either until i lifted the carpet and there were two doors in the sheet metal "hump".

 

'80s had the same style bins as the rest of the first gens... the '79's were different

 

yep, my 79 had "hidden" bins.

 

My '80 (build date 5/80) had no bins... they weren't introduced until the '81 model year.

 

i'll take a pic if i can

 

If you have bins, they were added later. SA's without rear seats just had a sheetmetal cover that went over the area where the rear seats went. Wasted lots of space. Mazda started using the bins in '81 with the Big Redesign and made a big deal about it.

Incidentally, I seemed to notice a handling difference with the sheetmetal cover out vs. with it installed. Maybe it was just because the car is a lot quieter with the cover removed, but the car felt a bit stiffer. That makes sense considering the cover is a pretty good box-section - it's fairly heavy-gauge steel with lots of creases, and it attaches to the body on two different planes. In a way it would act a lot like a 4-point roll bar would in stiffening the chassis a bit.

 

I got the panels also, outa my 79, but no "doors/holes", NOTHING, just SHEET METAL. And if you would like, I could take a picture, if the trash man hasnt already taken them Other wise they are by my ditch
LATERZ, Andrew

 

hmm.. possible the ones in my 80 were added in then.. because i still have those bloody supporst back there (which take up a good portion of the storage room in the bins)

it was also a fairly late model '80, (the first time it was sold was in january of '81) so i donot know. possible i just got lucky

 

Anymore thoughts on the 13 second car?????

 

Nitrous...