sunnydude98

I have a 12a manifold that I believe is not stock, but I do not know what it is. Please look in my garage for the pics so I can ID it....THanks in advance

Rogue_Wulff

Old, but stock.

680RWHP12A

its a 79-80 style 12a intake.. a popular choice for the road race guys

sunnydude98

so my best bet would be to find a nikki that has all of the bull taken off of it. Or get rid of this one and find a dcoe manifold.

Rx7carl

Any Nikki made for a rotary can be used with that manifold. Its the best stock flowing of the 1st gen models.

sunnydude98

Are there any particular links that you have that I could read about a nikki? I just have a feeling that I am missing some of the emissions junk or whatever. I am very foreign to rotary motors in general, and am trying to gain all of the knowledge I can.

sunnydude98

My next question is, are there any sure fire ways to ID what motor I have. I got it out of a '83, it has a '81-'82 flywheel, and it has an intake from a '79-'80 model. The only thing I do know at this point is that is a 12a...haha

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

hard to tell exactly. but by looking at your pictures the motor is setup for the front mount oil cooler which hints at a pre-'83 engine, and if i remember correctly the really early 12A's had "R5" cast onto the iron side/intermediate plates while the later 12A's had a "Y". but all the external parts can be swapped around, and it could have been rebuilt using a bunch of different year parts, so its almost impossable to tell

sunnydude98

Are there any advantages to having a older motor? Do you guys have any great links for vacuum diagrams or anything. I really wanna get rid of that manifold, and get a DCOE manifold for it. Is the vac system complicated when you switch a carb to something like that?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

There are threads in the archives that cover the stripping of a Nikki.

Also in my signature is a link for the factory service manuals.

sunnydude98

Thanks for all of your help guys. I really wanna get this project up and running. Any Idea what I could get out of that stock manifold? Hopefull with all of my knowledge of weber setups on VW aircooleds, I can get one and set it up right for this car

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Before you go spending money on a new manifold as well as the carb, take a look at the Sterling Nikki. Awesome carb and you get to keep your manifold. Check www.sterlingmetalworks.com for the details. Click the link in my sig and go to the last page for some pictures and a short review. What are your goals for power output? The manifold can be ported out but unless your working on a drag car the stock mani is good enough for a street car. Still some power to be had there but you don't need to be in too much of a rush to dump it.

sunnydude98

I have thought about a sterling nikki, but I have to read through the vac diagrams and stuff to make sure that I understand how to hook things up right. I am only looking to get as much power as I can on a stock port block. From what I have heard a nikki is capable of that.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Personally, I would stick with the intake you have and get a sterling!

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Nothing different to hook up between a stock Nikki and a Sterling. Actually theres less but what is there is all the same. A stock Nikki will not be enough to get max power out of a stock port engine. The only significant power adder other than a carb is the exhaust and a good one will only net you about a 20% increase. So about 120HP at the flywheel. You won't get much further without upgrading the carb. I think the best arguement for the Sterling is it's flexibility. It has the high end the rotary loves, but also good low end for dawdling around in traffic. 2 barrel carbs generally only like to sit up in the high RPM range.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Wow, no ACV.

Rogue_Wulff

Finally, someone else noticed the lack of ACV casting.

sunnydude98

That is what made me think it was aftermarket or something. Any info on what it is would be great.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Possible 70's 12a manifold??

sunnydude98

are they any good or should I pitch it?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Send it to me or somebody else who needs it.

Kentetsu

You should have been at the race this past weekend so you could see some of our setups. We had 7 or 8 RX7s there.

I'm running a Sterling carb and couldn't be happier. Check out my vids in my signature line if you like. I would take that weird manifold of yours, and strap on a Sterling, then go terrorize some Hondas.

You ever get up to Grand Rapids area?

sunnydude98

What type of sterling setup did you get, and how much did it cost? what is the best for my application. All I need is barebones, I am used to having webers and such. I do get to GR once in a while. I will make sure to get up there once I get my engine ready to hook up.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

No such thing as a barebones Sterling. I believe they have been working on a higher flowing design but I don't think it's available yet. A Sterling is a Sterling. 465CFM, mechanical secondarys, custom linkage, and more. You'll have to go to the website to see pricing. Sterling isn't a vendor here and we just don't want to get him into any hot water with the admins. Price is comparable to a Holley, and I'm sure most of his other customers would agree with me on this, but his customer service is awesome. Prompt with responses to emails and he is very very knowledgable about his product. I summed it up pretty well in another thread so I'll try to repeat it. A Nikki is a carb that was orignially designed by Mazda (the rotary pioneers) to work well with a rotary engine, then taken by a rotary enthusiast, and heavily modified to work even better on a rotary. Any other carb out there can be made to work with a rotary engine, but that was not their purpose from the start. Now ask yourself, do you want a carb that was modified to be good enough on a rotary or a carb that was made for a rotary from the factory, then massaged to be what it should have been from the factory.

Kentetsu

You can't go wrong with a Sterling. And actually, the cost is less than half that of a Racing Beat Holley carb setup. The Sterling carbs are stripped of all the BS that you don't need. Go to www.sterlingmetalworks.com and take a look at one. It is a great way to simplify your engine bay too (I only have two vacuum lines, including the one to the brake booster). If you want an idea of how they perform, just check out my videos. I've never lost a race due to lack of horsepower.