Bochek

ok well, someone has swaped in a 12a from a 83 into the gsl-se that i just bought, it runs like crap!

checked compression and it checks out good. very even pulses at 70psi or more.

got a few questions

1) why is there 2 vacuume actuators on the disty?
2) where are they supose to be connected, neither of them have vacuume lines on them.
3) there is no emmisions stuff on the car. i found 1 open vac port. over by the exhaust manifold. a big one.

pluged it, not sure what it was about.

4)what other problems might i find?

appreciated your help,
- Bochek

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You can hook up the dizzy vacuum ports to a tee, then to one of the capped vacuum ports at the bottom of the carb. If the vacuum port above the exhaust mani comes off the back side of the intake mani, it may be for the brake booster.

Post pics of both sides of the carb and intake.

Bochek

pics!


drivers side of the carb, wtf is with all the vac lines just looped around?


blocked off vaccume line on some sorta thingymajigger.

also, there are a few vacuume actuators on the carb that are not hooked up.
you can see one of them in the first pic.

this motor is a vacuume line mess!

any help is grealy appreciated, i wanna know if this motor is good or not.

Boche

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

As for the vacuum lines looped around, thats just a lazy way of capping them. The actuator at the bottom right of your picture is for the shutter valve. Without all the emission control stuff, the valve should be all capped and somehow fixed to assure the engine wont suck it closed, can be a problem...
The port higher up on your carb should be connected to the oil filler tube IIRC.

Other than that, If I were you I would get an ACV block off plate (the big valve thing on the intake in picture #2 because once the emissions stuff is gone these can be a problem causing vacuum leaks.
I would also connect the vacuum advance hoses to the dizzy, and see how it runs then. Take some more pictures if theres anything else that looks out of place.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps if you describe a little bit more in detail of how your car "runs like crap" we would be able to better assist you as well.

Bochek

it seems to fire a few times, the miss a few times, then fire a few times, and so on.

sounds sorta like a bridgeport but at about 750 rpm.

when reved up a bit, it missfires very evenly.

Bochek

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The rusty curved steel line is for the brake booster, so you are good there. Buy vacuum caps for the looped ones, use the port 2nd from the left for the dizzy. Gen1onr has you covered for the rest of it.

Bochek

ok well il give that a try next time im able to run the car.

its 8:00 pm and the straight 3" exhaust doesnt help the sound levels.

- Bochek

DriftFB

There wasn't a 83 GSL-SE, you might want to check on what chassis you have make sure everthing checks out.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Misfiring sounds like an ignition issue, while you may have vacuum leaks and fuel problems.. they will be easier to diagnose if your ignition is in top notch running order. Pull all the plug wires and clean up the connections on the top of the distributor cap, take a file and touch up the inside of the cap and the rotor, and if it looks like the electricity has worn down the contacts replace the cap + rotor. If you dont know how long the spark plugs have been in the car replace them, and if it doesnt help u always have the old set as a spare. I would also check the connections on the coils.
If the distributor cap + rotor are good, new plugs and spark wires dont help then I would check your timing and then check the spark to see if it looks weak. Should the spark be weak, change / test your coils and examine all the connections. Once your Ignition looks good, if its still running poorly then move on to the carb. Often people assume that its a fuel issue, when really its Ignition, so thats why I always start there.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

If you read closely he doesnt state the year of the chassis, just that the 12a motor in his GSL-SE is from '83 car.

Bochek

the motor is from a 83 the car is a 85

is it possible that because the vacuume advance on the disty the ignition timing is too retarded causing it to missfire?

- Bochek

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Check the timing. I don't run vacuum advance on the Mikuni and have no issues with misfires.

Bochek

why is there 2 vacuume actuators on the disty?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

One for leading, one for trailing.

In my sig line is a link to the online FSMs Download the one for your year and the Carb Manual. That should help you get things sorted out some. Read through the FAQs, there are some great write ups on carbs by Sterling, along with a good bit of general info on 1st gens. Read through the link on the rats nest removal and check it against your's.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

OMG, I think that's my old car!

Where in ontario are you?

Is it black, maroon interior, 240,000+KM?

Wanna sell it? Hell, I'll even trade you for a running/driving FC.

If not but it WAS my old car - has the carb been rebuilt recently? if not, it's FUCKED and needs a rebuild.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Now a good forum member would go help him straighten out his car, wouldn't they? lol

DriftFB

when I read the title and then the first sentence and it says "12a in a 83 GSL-SE" I make the mistake of thinking he's saying he has a 12a in a 83 GSL-SE.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

hey, I told him what is probably wrong with it.

if he is nearby and doesn't want to sell it to me I would gladly go help him fix it :P

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Atta boy, I knew you were a credit to the community. Just poking fun.

Bochek

did you sell it to a guy named john?

im in grimsby ontario but i bought it in the toronto area.

and yes, maroon interior, black car 240,000 on the odometer. alltho someone has stolen the passenger seat and the radio.

there is a carb rebuild kit sitting in the car.

if it is your car, wich it sounds like it is. did you do the 12a engine swap?

- Bochek

Bochek

ok so imma rebuild the carb this weekend, allready have the rebuild kit (came with the car) so i might aswell do it right?

also, if the actuator under the carb is not tied to hold the plates open, could this be causing my rough idle? (plates closing then opening then closing then opening exct)

Terrh, if this is your old car. did you do the 12a swap, if so, is the carb the problem why it wont run properly?

more pics you can see here
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2477104/1

Any info here is appreciated.
-Bochek

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

I think it's seen a few owners since I owned it, but that is without a doubt my old car.

as mentioned in the PM, the 12A swap was done previous to me owning it. The carb was pretty close to toast when I sold it I think, I'm sure that it needs to be rebuilt by now.

Weird that the passanger seat and radio would get "stolen" lol, when I had it it had a stock deck.

I'm trying to think of what else was wrong with it back then, but I can't think of much.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

When you rebuild the carb, remove the intake, then remove the butterfly for the shutter valve. You can remove the entire shutter valve and plug the 2 holes in the intake. I tap and screw bolts in the holes, using J B Weld as a thread sealer.

Bochek

do you have to compleatly remove the intake manifold from the engine to remove the shutter valve?

also, how do you know if the carb is bad?
- Bochek