Noob question but anyone got the answer for a good working used pump? I saw the price of a new one is ~120ish. How about used?

 

Uh, you can get a new Carter or Master pump for around $50 and it comes with an inline filter. Check out Advance, O'Reilley, or Autozone.

 

or summitracing.com

 

You want a stock pump? I'll sell you a used one for $5 plus shipping. But I would urge you to upgrade to a carter or likewise just so you can be like the cool kids and have a high performance fuel system. Get a regulator also.

 

 

 

I've got a Mallory Comp 70 that I absolutely love. It's quiet, flows a ton of fuel (good for upgrades as they come) and it's brand new.

The problem with any aftermarket or OEM replacement pumps are that they push too much fuel pressure for your carb. That requires a Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Depending on where you look you can pick up a Holley 1-4psi Fuel Pressure Regulator for not too much.

I would never buy a used pump. The "newest" used pump for our cars would be 19 years old right now. They barely met fuel requirements from the factory and definitely wouldn't be pushing enough fuel after all these years. If you really are strepped for cash, someone here can probably hook you up with a used one in the meantime, but you should go for an aftermarket pump and regulator.

Be careful with the "OEM Replacement" pumps sold by places like NAPA. They aren't the original equipment and sometimes can't be mounted in the stock mounting location. Newer pumps like the Holley, Carter, and Mallory need to be mounted Vertically instead of Horizontally. And again they might be pushing too much juice causing flooding problems among other things.

Go aftermarket. They'll provide enough fuel throughout the powerband and give you plenty of room for expansion later. Your car will thank you for it.

Jon

 

i just bought a new stock replacement from lordco for 77 canadian. that was with 30% off or whatever.
i haven't hooked it up yet but i'll tell you how it works.

 

Hey now, I was being serious. I rock Carter pumps myself, and I just upgraded from the 7psi to the P4600HP. A holley low pressure regulator will run you about $26 from summit, the 72GPH pump will be about $60.

You might want to think about returning it and getting the upgrade.

 

Hey Jon -

Any chance that you have some pictures of your installation? Or at least some details. I'm going to be putting a Racing Beat Holley and intake on the 13B 6 port I'm putting in my '85 GS project car and will need a pump that puts out 6PSI. The Mallory sounds like a good choice (I especially like your comments in another thread about it's quietness) as long as it doesn't take too much fabbing to install.

Thanks,
Rich

 

64mgb,

Unfortunately, since the car is under the tarp for the winter and I didn't take pics of the install, pics won't be available until Spring. But since I love giving info on my car, I'll pummel you with any information I can think of about my setup

I started by removing the storage bin behind the driver's seat to get access to the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Then off came the cover over the old pump, and the old pump itself. Always label your lines. You're going to be removing them anyway, but you should spend some time studying the lines before your replace them. The fuel send line goes from the tank, to the filter first (I left it in the stock location methinks), then to the pump, and finally into the metal line that goes to the front of the car. Between the filter and the pump on my car was some sort of check valve. This check valve, if it exists on your car, will give me a reference for positioning.

The pump doesn't come with the attachments for the lines, you'll have to remember to pick those up at the part store. If you can't find ones in the auto section, go over to the plumbing section and get some brass ones. That's what I used, and it worked well, but you have to use some major elbow-grease torque to get them in tight enough to prevent leaks. In retrospect, I should have used some sort of thread sealant.

The original electrical connector is soldered to the pump on one end, and a white 2-pronged connector on the other end. Since I'm good with a soldering iron and shrinkwrap, I cut the connector off the stock pump, soldered it to the new pump, and shrinkwrapped the wires for that professional look IIRC the black-with-white-stripe wire solders to the red wire of the mallory.

Since the pump had to be mounted not-horizontal, I had to find somewhere to mount it roughly vertical. I mounted mine where the floor slopes up under the storage bins. You have to be very careful where you mount it there. I originally mounted mine an inch too high, and the rear swaybar kept hitting it - not a good thing at all! Luckily I caught it within a day and moved it down. The original spot where I mounted it was about two inches to the right of the check valve, with the brass fitting on exactly the same level with the check valve. This made it easy for me to tube up, because it was just a two inch piece of fuel line that went straight from the check valve to the pump inlet. Unfortunately this was the BAD place to mount it, so I moved it a few inches to the right and down of there.

The easiest way to mount the mallory is to go to the local part store and get four bolts that will fit through the holes in the mounting bracket, and nuts to go with them. I got bolts that were about two inches long, and got eight nuts so that I could double-nut them (I really don't want my shiney new fuel pump falling off!).

Since it's easier to drill holes from the inside-out, I started underneath for the first hole. Since the mounting bracket is an integral part of the pump, I just held the pump up and moved it around until I found a spot that I liked. I drilled the first hole, remembered which spot it had in the mounting bracket, then brought the fuel pump inside the car. Using the mounting bracket again to locate the spots for the other holes, I drilled the other three.

Bolt heads on the outside, nuts on the inside seemed to make sense for me.

So mount the pump, connect the electrical connector, tape the extra wire out of the way inside the car, and run your lines. Voila.

So now that I've rambled, I'll summarize:

- Take out Storage Bins, Remove old pump, label lines, study the lines,
- Buy/Acquire your pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fittings, Shrinkwrap and Solder, as well as a new fuel filter.
- Cut the connector off the old pump, leaving plenty of wire, and solder the new one on. You may need to reference the shop manual for this, but IIRC the black-with-white wire from the stock connector solders to the red wire of the mallory.
- Get under the car, position your fuel pump, and drill the first hole.
- Get into car, position the pump so that the first hole is in the mirror-image spot of where it was on the under side. Drill the other three holes.
- Get under car again (this part needs a partner, you can't do this one alone). Position pump and thread bolts through. Get your partner to tighten the nuts down onto the bolts to secure the pump in place
- Push the electrical connector back through to the inside, connect it, and make sure that you tape the excess wiring out of the way - you don't want your longer wires dangling down for rocks to hit when you're driving
- Connect the fuel lines. Give yourself some bending room... In the original location that I chose 2 inches from the check valve, it was nearly impossible to get the fuel lines in place.
- Make sure you have about a half-tank of gas and a new filter. Test out your new pump.

I hope I didn't leave anything out. It's very straightforward. I did it in one afternoon-evening with a friend of mine.

If you have any quesitons, PM me

Jon

 

And of course I forgot part II: The FPR installation

This is even easier. There are two fuel lines attached to your carb. The one that attaches to the carb closer to the firewall is your fuel send line. This is the one that will connect to your FPR.

I mounted my FPR on the firewall, to the left of the hood latch, in pretty much the only good spot I could find. In order to clear the "lip" under where I mounted it, I used washers on the lower screws for the mounting bracket, to angle it outward from the firewall more than the top.

The fuel send line goes from the metal pipe where it comes into the engine bay, to the BOTTOM of the FPR. Where I mounted mine, this made the tube loop around and go up directly between the tubes for the heater core (to give you a better idea of where I mounted it... The bottom fitting points straight down between those heater core tubes).

You can either block one of the outputs somehow, or you can do what I did and mount a cheap fuel pressure guage to it. The other output goes to the carb.

Voila. Very easy. Three scews hold the bracket to the firewall, two screws hold the FPR to the bracket, and two fuel lines connect the fuel-in to the FPR and FRP to carb.

Jon

 

The closest pump to the stock ones was the FACET- 6 PSI. the RB dellorto facet set-up utlized 2 facet pumps connected in series-parallel style. BUT, RB no longer sells them.

 

And 6psi is still too much for a stock Nikki.

Stock Nikki takes aound 3ish methinks
Paul Yaw carbs take 2.5
Sterling Carbs take about 3.5 methinks...

6psi still doubles most of those.

Jon

 

advanced auto 32$ inline pump 4-7 psi

 

oh and stock the book i bought says 3.7-4.7 so 4-7 is in that range... never had any problems on my car, thats what the fuel return line is for anyway... lol

 

Return line can deal with extra flow, but not extra pressure.

There's a difference between "How Much" it flows (usually measured in GPH), and "How Hard" it pushes the fuel (PSI).

The return line allows the excess flow to be diverted back to the tank.

Too much pressure can force its way through the carb. Not being a carb expert, I can't specify what it would do, but I've been assured that too much pressure is a bad thing . Good to know it works for ya, but it might wear down things faster over time.

Jon

 

I've got the Holley Red Pump, its louder than my straight exhaust at idle I also have a Paul Yaw carb, it wont run if its set any lower than 4psi.


Only 2 more months of storage