12A to 1JZ
#26
Senior Member
That said, A 13B will be much easier and will probably get done, unlike a Toyota engine.
Also, going from carbureted to fuel injected is gonna be annoying (I'm assuming the Toyota engine is fuel injected). Slapping a carb on the 13B and putting a 13B header on is super easy in comparison.
Also, going from carbureted to fuel injected is gonna be annoying (I'm assuming the Toyota engine is fuel injected). Slapping a carb on the 13B and putting a 13B header on is super easy in comparison.
#27
Lapping = Fapping
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The walbro is a lousy choice when used with the stock fpr on a stock rail. According to Karack, it puts out 60psi base pressure. This will tend to flood. I experienced this myself. Annoying. I like the MSD 2225 pumps.
And then there are the starvation issues of using a 12A tank for EFI. Been there, done that, not gonna do it again.
And then there is the Rube Goldberg stock EFI manifolding and ECU from the 1980s. Ancient technology. But then you need some other kind of aftermarket ECU with all its custom wiring and tuning involved.
That's why I stick with hogged out Nikkis on 13Bs whether for boost or NA. Mine do everything I need them to do, and then some. I would require a V8 to get the kind of performance I'm getting now out of 13B, but then there would be the weight penalty of the V8 which I am not interested in. I would certainly never do anything less than an 8 banger if I was ever going to do such a piston swap.
And then there are the starvation issues of using a 12A tank for EFI. Been there, done that, not gonna do it again.
And then there is the Rube Goldberg stock EFI manifolding and ECU from the 1980s. Ancient technology. But then you need some other kind of aftermarket ECU with all its custom wiring and tuning involved.
That's why I stick with hogged out Nikkis on 13Bs whether for boost or NA. Mine do everything I need them to do, and then some. I would require a V8 to get the kind of performance I'm getting now out of 13B, but then there would be the weight penalty of the V8 which I am not interested in. I would certainly never do anything less than an 8 banger if I was ever going to do such a piston swap.
#28
There is more to slapping an engine in a car than just that slapping it in. Where if you stay in the rotary world all you have to do is "slap it in". I wouldn't call that marginally.
If you are up to it GO FOR IT. Don't let anybody stop you. I'd just assume buy an IS250 before I got an engine and stuck it in something not made for it.
EDIT: whats up with the oe 12A??? Fix that if you can.
#29
Waffles - hmmm good
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did you do? I'm familiar with a lot of the rotary folks here around Charlotte and
especially up in mooresville.
I agree with Qing, its a lot of work to put anything but a rotary in a 7. All kinds of
fabrication for lots of little issues that make what appears to be simple a very
complex task. I know because I've had buddies to it and saw it all with my own
eyes.
#30
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Well, the 12A, like I said, is definitely running, however, it's not "reliable." I can't drive it to base and use it when I go to an appointment. It's normally not "cooled down" enough to restart. That being said, what should be a 15 minute appointment turns into an hour or more, pretty easily between starting/warm-up, idling for 5-10 minutes before shutdown, the appointment it's self, and then the time before it starts again with again, another warm-up. Hopefully, I don't foresee too many appointments in my future, however, I'd like to be able to turn it off like I do, then be able to turn it back on and run back to my job or to the house. I have a Weber DCOE 45 side draft on it, and am looking at getting a tune when I get back, however, I don't think that's the only problem going on? It might be though. I've only had the car since the 18th or so of December. It has an in inline fuel pump, seams to be fine and pushing enough fuel... I think it's truly in dire need of a carb tune. Unfortunately, there are very few decent car shops in Idaho, and even fewer people that have ever seen/worked on a carbureted engine let alone a Rotary... It's hard to find decent help in the Boise/Mountain Home area. For running a stock engine, what is a relatively inexpensive suspension set-up? I'm not trying to race it, or auto-x. Just take it for a spirited ride on a weekend or weekday. Any set-ups under $400-$500 that I could do in my garage on a weekend?
#31
carb whisperer
Well, the 12A, like I said, is definitely running, however, it's not "reliable." I can't drive it to base and use it when I go to an appointment. It's normally not "cooled down" enough to restart. That being said, what should be a 15 minute appointment turns into an hour or more, pretty easily between starting/warm-up, idling for 5-10 minutes before shutdown, the appointment it's self, and then the time before it starts again with again, another warm-up. Hopefully, I don't foresee too many appointments in my future, however, I'd like to be able to turn it off like I do, then be able to turn it back on and run back to my job or to the house. I have a Weber DCOE 45 side draft on it, and am looking at getting a tune when I get back, however, I don't think that's the only problem going on? It might be though. I've only had the car since the 18th or so of December. It has an in inline fuel pump, seams to be fine and pushing enough fuel... I think it's truly in dire need of a carb tune. Unfortunately, there are very few decent car shops in Idaho, and even fewer people that have ever seen/worked on a carbureted engine let alone a Rotary... It's hard to find decent help in the Boise/Mountain Home area. For running a stock engine, what is a relatively inexpensive suspension set-up? I'm not trying to race it, or auto-x. Just take it for a spirited ride on a weekend or weekday. Any set-ups under $400-$500 that I could do in my garage on a weekend?
#32
Old [Sch|F]ool
DCOEs work very well when they are set up well. The first time I ever drove one, I didn't know the engine wasn't stock until I opened the hood.
This is also a clue that a single DCOE is not a performance upgrade. You really need a dual DCOE. A single 45 feels exactly like a stock Nikki.
This is also a clue that a single DCOE is not a performance upgrade. You really need a dual DCOE. A single 45 feels exactly like a stock Nikki.
#33
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DCOEs work very well when they are set up well. The first time I ever drove one, I didn't know the engine wasn't stock until I opened the hood.
This is also a clue that a single DCOE is not a performance upgrade. You really need a dual DCOE. A single 45 feels exactly like a stock Nikki.
This is also a clue that a single DCOE is not a performance upgrade. You really need a dual DCOE. A single 45 feels exactly like a stock Nikki.
#34
Jetting and changing the setup of the carburetor to correctly match the exhaust and engine will make it go away.
Forgive my DCOE ineptness... but there are two venturies that are completely separate? If so you might want to look into vacuum syncing.
heavier ignition isn't gonna fix the issue of improper fuel delivery.
What's wrong with the nikki?
What I mean is "did it run fine with the nikki, and then develop these issues with a DCOE?"
Forgive my DCOE ineptness... but there are two venturies that are completely separate? If so you might want to look into vacuum syncing.
heavier ignition isn't gonna fix the issue of improper fuel delivery.
What's wrong with the nikki?
What I mean is "did it run fine with the nikki, and then develop these issues with a DCOE?"
#36
It's dual. There are 2 tubes coming from it sideways. I don't think I have a pic on my phone, but it is dual. Would the MSD ignition system help out with the evaporating of excess fuel? I'm going to take it to a guy to get professionally tuned. I haven't worked enough with carbs to tune it in how it should be.
#38
carb whisperer
It's dual. There are 2 tubes coming from it sideways. I don't think I have a pic on my phone, but it is dual. Would the MSD ignition system help out with the evaporating of excess fuel? I'm going to take it to a guy to get professionally tuned. I haven't worked enough with carbs to tune it in how it should be.
My bet is that it's just running way too rich.
#39
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I don't know how it ran with the Nikki.... when I got the car, it had the Weber and that's it. No Nikki. Being that I'm not physically with the car at this moment, I can't really change anything on it to see if it runs better or not. Definitely going with msd ignition, and definitely getting it tuned. These are guaranteed when I get back. Hopefully that helps with the situation. Any suggestions as far as suspension goes? Just a daily driver with the occasional spirited drive. No auto x or anything. Suggestions for a weekend/garage project around $4-500?
#40
I don't know how it ran with the Nikki.... when I got the car, it had the Weber and that's it. No Nikki. Being that I'm not physically with the car at this moment, I can't really change anything on it to see if it runs better or not. Definitely going with msd ignition, and definitely getting it tuned. These are guaranteed when I get back. Hopefully that helps with the situation. Any suggestions as far as suspension goes? Just a daily driver with the occasional spirited drive. No auto x or anything. Suggestions for a weekend/garage project around $4-500?
#43
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So, the fronts are in-stock, the rears are a "special order." That, to me, says that they have them, but are in storage and will take an extra day to get... or they are just plain out. Either way, seriously considering the ones for the front before they are gone....
#46
carb whisperer
#47
Senior Member
You're gonna hate me but I'm on the dark side lol. I have an 85 GSL with an LT1 I swapped. Im also an engineer so I love figuring out how to make things work, building engine mounts and such is fun to me
#49
Old [Sch|F]ool
Would be a fun little motor without massively overpowering the chassis.