#1 reason to break in your clutch properly
#1
#1 reason to break in your clutch properly
only 50 miles on it.....and i didnt didnt abuse the clutch at all...my dad just happen to take it over 6500 for a little bit and then it wouldent shift to 3rd then every time we took off it made a grinding noise
#2
oooooo yeah
I broke mine in the best I could. But being 17 and all, it's NOT a good time to be breaking in an engine/ clutch package. I did 3k rpm limit for 600mi., and 4k limit for another 400mi. I think everything is working ok. Although I don't seem to get much acceleration past 4k rpm in 1st gear. Is my clutch slipping or something? not to steal the thread anything, just want to tack that on there
~b.k.
I broke mine in the best I could. But being 17 and all, it's NOT a good time to be breaking in an engine/ clutch package. I did 3k rpm limit for 600mi., and 4k limit for another 400mi. I think everything is working ok. Although I don't seem to get much acceleration past 4k rpm in 1st gear. Is my clutch slipping or something? not to steal the thread anything, just want to tack that on there
~b.k.
#6
That's not from over-revving. It's just a defective clutch. I have never followed a break in period on a clutch. The only real time you will have problems is on take off. After that shifting inbetween gears is not as determental.
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#10
Originally Posted by cdrad51
I didn't know one is supposed to break in a clutch.
Brakes need to be bedded in to cause the proper adhesion to the rotors to prevent the glazing of rotors and the god awful squeak.
#11
Of course you do. Put a new organic clutch in, go do a few clutch dumps off the line and see what happens. The disc gets glazed and the pp and flywheel get burnt spots. Even my high dollar ceramic clutch had a 500 mile stop and go traffic break in period.
The only discs that don't require a break in are the brass button ones. They need to be broken in hard for them to seat to the pp and flywheel. Not sure on some of the racing multi-disc clutches, but then those are out of most our budgets.
The only discs that don't require a break in are the brass button ones. They need to be broken in hard for them to seat to the pp and flywheel. Not sure on some of the racing multi-disc clutches, but then those are out of most our budgets.
#13
I guess my break-in process is different. I just use common sense. I don't rev it up and dump the clutch at anytime ever. It's not a drag car and no need to use a clutch that way,lol.
#17
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
That's not from over-revving. It's just a defective clutch. I have never followed a break in period on a clutch. The only real time you will have problems is on take off. After that shifting inbetween gears is not as determental.
#18
http://www.dialaclutch.com/ great prices for an OEM LUK clutch.
#25
"my dad just happen to take it over 6500 for a little bit and then it wouldent shift to 3rd then every time we took off it made a grinding noise"
At least that's all your dad did to it. I had mine for a week and first time I let him drive it he toasted the motor. Separated the housings just below the exhaust port. At least I got to swap the stock 12a for a streetport 13b at a fraction of the cost.
At least that's all your dad did to it. I had mine for a week and first time I let him drive it he toasted the motor. Separated the housings just below the exhaust port. At least I got to swap the stock 12a for a streetport 13b at a fraction of the cost.