mabii

How do I get this goddamn thing off?Ive been fighting with it for the past 3 days.

steve84GS TII

Thread the nut back on halfway then take a hammer and strike the very edge of the flywheel with a good whack.
Be carful not to damage the flywheel when you hit it.Maybe fix a piece of plastic to the face of the hammer before swinging it.Or use a brass,lead or deadblow hammer.
Remember,its intensity not repetition that will pop it loose.A bigger hammer will get it in one blow,whereas a small hammer may not pop it off after 100 hits.......

mabii

Ok will try that how about a good rubber mallet so it is for sure a no damage hit?allso broke my snapon harmonic balancer puller so guess ima see him at work to get a new one!

steve84GS TII

If its heavy enough it might work.
The "ring" that a metal hammer produces will really help though.Taper fit parts like that and ball joints usually require a more solid hit than a rubber hammer can provide.

Whanrow

See this link. Another guy in this section has the same problem, and has had lots of suggestions.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/front-pulley-help-468740/

Seems best bet is to heat it up to melt the loctite on the bolt. Also you must prin the engine so it can't turn over.

mabii

Im talking the fliywheel its self not the nut

lovintha7

put the nut on most of the way, except DON'T hit the flywheel, hit the nut. I've done this several times. Normall comes off in the first 2 hits.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

nut??? use a heavy rubber mallet and whack the flywheel. As steve said, the nut will save your toes. I never had any problem with flywheels since I work out everyday....heineken time

christaylor

Heat the flywheel with a propane torch or oxy fuel setup, and cool the e-shaft with some ice. Squirt some WD-40 or other penetrant in there when you get the flywheel warm and the e-shaft cool. Then whack it with a hammer. Works like a champ (usually) for me.

PS - I dont put loctite on that **** when I put 'em back together. 400 ft/lbs needs no loctite, IMO.

MrDirt

My problem was that I kept trying to hit the flywheel OFF of the eccentric shaft... I tried for over an hour with a hammer and a block of wood, trying to back it off.... after a frustration break... I went back down and decided I'd try hitting it on the face, as in back toward the motor. This was with a normal hammer, and it came off on the first hit. I felt like a huge jackass... every flywheel I've taken off since has come off on the first or second hit if I hit it INTO the engine.

TopGunM2k

You do the same thing Mike Incas author of "Mazda Rx-7 Performance Handbook" said Mazda did with this Problem, hire King Kong for a day to torque and untorque it
But seriously, try attaching a longer pipe to the Breaker bar and having a buddy help you pull it.

mabii

Got it off with a block of wood and a hammer took 3hits.Thanks for the ideas guys.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I collected several lock washers from the older motors. So my motors have it plus blue lock-tite.

Xavier8

whack it like you hate it with a dead blow hammer from harbor freight. 5 lb hammer, 10 seconds, two seperate engine flywheels pop off. Also quite a release if I may so say.

bliffle

I'd guess that loctite would just be a nuisance in this application. I don't know anyone who's had a flywheel come loose.

B

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I have a puller that I modified to fit our flywheels. The secret is not to try and take the flywheel off with the puller, but to put tension on it. Once it is tensioned, a mild hit with a hammer will usually pop them. I've even had them pop while I walk over to pick up the hammer. Now that is a comforting sound when your back is turned.