Paulieboy72

If I change to wheel studs on my 84 gsl will I have to swap the bolts every time I change the front rotors?
I despise wheel bolts

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

Yes. It is not that hard to do if you buy good ones. I used them on my race car back in the 2000s. Rotors tended to last a season so, once a year I had to move them from the old rotors to the new ones. On a street car, this is something you would have to deal with allot less often.

I installed screw studs with blue loc-tite and kept the threads clean with a little anti-seize on them. Despite the fact that I rotated wheels front to back a least 2 times a race weekend, I never had issues with the studs backing out of the rotors or the axles. To remove them, I used a torch to heat the rotor and soften the loc-tite. Never had an issue getting them out.

This would be a good source if you want longer studs or studs with a bull nose: https://motorsporthardware.com/?s=St...t_type=product Here is another source: https://apexwheels.com/accessories/w...Pitch=m12x15mm

1BADRX7

I installed studs a couple of years ago, however, as I was installing them I was scared to tighten them tight as I was worried the hex key would round out. Maybe it was the brand of studs I used (might have been mcguard, or gorilla, something like that). Because of this, I will be removing the studs and going back to lug bolts. I did use some blue loctite on one corner so I'm hoping it's not too hard to come off.

Has anyone rounded out/stripped the inner hex area while tightening the studs onto the hub?

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

Never had an issue with the hexes rounding out. Originally used the ones that Racing Beat sold and then went to the more expensive studs made for VW Golfs. Porsche, etc.. The more expensive studs also have a positive stop, the cheap ones don't As I recall I torqued the studs to 10-20ft lbs. Basically tight enough for them to stay in place. The nuts were torqued to the same spec as the lug bolts.

All of this said, brake rotors and lug studs are consumable items. So if every few years you change rotors and have to replace a few studs, so what? Worth it for the utility provided by studs over lug bolts.

1BADRX7

I'll give this more thought and look into some better ones. I was going to add studs on my M3 which also used lug bolts but I sold the car before that happened.
While the lug bolts are somewhat of a hassle when installing wheels, I picked up a set of "wheel hanger stud pins" that work great. It's one more step but makes installing the lug bolt easier.
Something like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ins-58146.html

raven12aFB

Best decision ever

1BADRX7

Do the protruding bolt heads on the hub allow the wheel to sit flush? I'm guessing no unless your wheel has holes/spaces that go over it.

tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

I've had good experience with the stud conversion I did. The good news is our thread size is interchangeable with BMW, E46 etc, so there is good quality hardware available.

I've only done the front, which is the thread in style. Studs are installed and torqued to a different value than the lug nut. The assembled joint preload is achieved by torqueing the lug nuts.

I found, with my GSL (84/85) rear axle conversion, in hindsight.. I should have had drilled out the original threads in the axles and pressed in studs. This looks like what Raven did (?)

raven12aFB

No problems at all. They sit flush… I kept the factory wheels…..

raven12aFB

I thought about doing the pressed on ones…. I’ve done it on my previous FBs but I did it in this one after I reassembled the rear diff after I installed the new bearings and seals…

Thise are screwed on……