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It's probably not a speedo cable. If you can disconnect it from the speedometer, you should not be able to rotate the cable because the other end is geared to the transmission's output shaft.
Did today: R-134a conversion. Is cooling 38-45F depending on if compressor is engaged or not, and it's like 90F outside. And people say conversions don't work very well...
Also plated up another batch of hardware:
That's all the underhood small hardware, for brackets and such.
One of the U-shaped clips for retaining the brake lines where they pass through the inner fender disappeared along the way. It was in the pile after the first round of plating, but disappeared between there and the passivate (the gold surface finish) dip. Hopefully I find it before I need it. It's out there in the garage somewhwere.
Went 323.1mi before feeling like I should probably add fuel. Not familiar with this gauge yet. The pump shut off at 12.48 gallons. Carry the one, divide by zero... that can't be right, that's mixed driving!
Jeez, stock 12As and Nikkis are awesome!
Even my hogged out nikki gets 24 mpg on the highway. Nikkis rule!
But then I guess I'm just a MPG savant. When I posted a funny odometer pic on Swedespeed (2,4,6,8,10,12,14) people were like, wait, how are you getting MPG like that?
The creepy thing about the S60R's fuel economy minder is that it is crazy-accurate. Like, if you divide the trip odometer by fuel economy, it will take that many gallons within about 5 hundredths.
I must drive like a complete idiot, I only ever see < 20 MPG. Totally stock Nikki so I shouldn't be too rich on the mixture. I've only ever adjusted the idle mix, no jetting etc.
Trans looks good!! Make sure scrape the paint off of the mounting surfaces and flanges, especially the clutch cylinder. Also I learned the hard way, if those clutch cylinder threads are even a little bit questionable, helicoil them now.
Thanks for the tips. Will the coat of paint really affect the clutch slave cylinder mounting/engagement? Those threaded holes were good BTW. I did have to insert helicoils in the trans mount holes though, as those bolts stripped the threads when I replaced the trans mount a couple of years ago.
I need to button up a few things on the engine before before them back in, but I'm almost ready.
I must drive like a complete idiot, I only ever see < 20 MPG. Totally stock Nikki so I shouldn't be too rich on the mixture. I've only ever adjusted the idle mix, no jetting etc.
Maxing out the trailing timing and dropping the fuel pressure will help a lot. I just reduce pressure until it feels nice and crisp cruising at 60mph. Hard to explain, it just feels a lot better.
Maxing out the trailing timing and dropping the fuel pressure will help a lot. I just reduce pressure until it feels nice and crisp cruising at 60mph. Hard to explain, it just feels a lot better.
Stock jetting is pretty rich.
Thank you.
I've adjusted the leading timing but not recently and I've always just left the trailing tagging along where it was.
Any recommendations a a good fuel pressure regulator? I assume it goes under the hood?
the tachometer died, so I replaced the t-ignitor with one that I had in reserve since 1998. and the speedometer died, I verified that it was connected to the instrument cluster. is there something else to check before I buy a new speedo-cable???? do new speedo cables for a rx-7 fb exist anymore? would a miata speedo cable work??
I can't get the dash out of mine, much less hand back there to get speedo on. got it off for conversion, but no speedo since.....and need to do the tachometer adjustment/capacitor. any links to threads would be appreciated.
I tried to start mine, I think it's dead. This car hates holidays. The original engine lost front rotor apex seals Christmas Day 2007.
Drove it to work a little over a week ago. Now today it catches with the starter but dies as soon as the starter is disengaged.
Fuel and spark are present. Deflooding and squirting some 2 stroke in the plug holes didn't work.
It responds with the pedal when cranking, like it wants to go but can't without the starter spinning it.
Compression with a piston tester is super low. Both rotors bouncing around 40psi with the button held down.
I guess now's the time to send rotors and irons for work while it's too hot to wrench on it.
I've had engines start and run just fine with 25psi on that compression test method, which is about 80-90psi on a Mazda tester. Your symptom almost sounds like a failed/failing ignition switch, where the ignition coils are getting power in the crank position but not the run position.
That was it. Thanks for the tip. I would've felt a lot dumber had I put together another engine and then it wouldn't start.
Or maybe part of me is itching to put together the 13B parts that have been sitting on the shelf the last few years.
The switch was loose in the steering lock housing because one of the locking snaps broke. Another broke upon removal.
I was able to get it started by holding it together by hand.
The part number on dealer websites shows an "Add to cart" button rather than "Discontinued" but NLA is added to the part number. I'll try it anyway.
Otherwise I'll rig up a toggle switch and push button start like I did for track days when the key barrel was worn out.
That was it. Thanks for the tip. I would've felt a lot dumber had I put together another engine and then it wouldn't start.
Or maybe part of me is itching to put together the 13B parts that have been sitting on the shelf the last few years.
The switch was loose in the steering lock housing because one of the locking snaps broke. Another broke upon removal.
I was able to get it started by holding it together by hand.
The part number on dealer websites shows an "Add to cart" button rather than "Discontinued" but NLA is added to the part number. I'll try it anyway.
Otherwise I'll rig up a toggle switch and push button start like I did for track days when the key barrel was worn out.
Atkins has some but not series 2 or 82 if thats the year of your car. Wonder what the differences are?
Series 1 has different connectors and colored wires.
S3 looks identical to S2 except it has the key reminder switch bundled (3 pin connector). Looks like that's the one to get
Finally getting around to installing the body and wrapping up finishing touches on the rest of the 7.
Waiting on carbon panels from Fibermaz for the rest of the interior still.
Still needs a wet sand after the new paint.........(The Dread)
and for everyone that takes issue with the 350........
Over the last few weeks or so I've sorted out a couple things on the car (aside from the turbo). First was finally dealing with my glitchy gauge cluster. Last time I had it apart I didn't remove the fuel and water gauges from the board as the bolts were rusted tight. Unfortunately, due to this omission, the "repairs" I performed previously didn't really do anything (temp gauge had been kaput for a while). So, this time I took everything apart, including depinning the two gauge electrical plugs and cleaning/tightening the terminals. I had to cut two bolts/studs on the gauges to remove them due to damaged threads, but by doing so I was able to get them out. After that I confirmed everything was working, used some new hardware on reassembly, and got it all back together. Happy to say it's working flawlessly now. Here's a couple photos from the process.
I also thought it was neat how the clock housing is clear to allow for light to aluminate the face while only using the cluster's four main 194 bulbs. I'm sure this is fairly common, I just haven't taken apart many gauge clusters with an analog clock.
Second thing is finally driving the car in some heat with the new electric fan setup. While it's been installed for a number of months now, this is the first time driving in above 100F weather (it's been hotter, but this is the first time driving extensively the in heat this summer). Happy to say that it's doing very well even in stop and go traffic without any form of shroud, and an intercooler now in front of the radiator too. Although to be honest, I do wonder how oil temps are doing at idle.
Now to go update the turbo thread... that's gonna take a while.
Series 1 has different connectors and colored wires.
S3 looks identical to S2 except it has the key reminder switch bundled (3 pin connector). Looks like that's the one to get
So the S3 ignition switch is perfectly compatible with the S2. A longer screw was needed and the blue wire sticks out differently so that the bottom/rear of the column cover can't be screwed in.
I took the key switch off and used the one bundled with the S3.
beauty! looks like SA dash. Clean radio install, sir! Do I see some sort of light in the overhead panel above the heat controls? And the dash looks to be...FB? Plse show a wider shot, some details...
That's definitely an SA center stack - the wider switches at the bottom are a giveaway.
I'd love to find a retro-styled head unit like that, with Bluetooth. I guess that one's not super-old, given that it has CD, but still probably too old to have BT. These days all I do is stream from my phone.
06-26-21, 03:57 PM
Final Finishing the Carbon IMSA 7
