What did you do to your FB today?
09-17-13, 02:20 PM
#3751
I started/finished the aux-in modification for Fungus_mungus' tape deck - he now has GPS, streaming digital radio, and whatever else his digital devices may have in store, all through the factory system!
When i was testing out the unit, i decided to try to eliminate my stereo shut-down pop by adding in a "4k resistor" as per what the audio shop guy told me. The only thing that accomplished was preventing the entire system from turning on. I'll have to see what the hell he was talking about.
When i was testing out the unit, i decided to try to eliminate my stereo shut-down pop by adding in a "4k resistor" as per what the audio shop guy told me. The only thing that accomplished was preventing the entire system from turning on. I'll have to see what the hell he was talking about.
I noticed that pop sound myself and wondered about it. The cure is to just leave the radio on and never turn it off. Today I got up early and decided to address my sagging driver's door. I bought a set of second-hand hinges of eBay ages ago and have been lagging on installing them. Today, I got the door off:
And then removed the hinges:
I was afraid I was going to have to take off the fender, as I'd read somewhere that this was standard procedure for taking the door off. I was happy to find that this wasn't necessary at all. Just take the door off the hinge, then take the hinges off the car. It required a couple of different sockets and wrenches to accomplish. The upper bolt on the top hinge had be taken off with an open end wrench. Others required my ratcheting closed end wrenches, and the others I was able to take off using a socket wrench. It took about 30 minutes to get the door off, if even that. Very pleased at how easy this was, even doing it alone.
I need to put the new brackets on, which I'll probably do tonight.
Later this morning, I bought a set of Magnacore plug wires to use in my MSD 6A upgrade.
fm
09-17-13, 11:01 PM
#3754
Sin City Rotary
09-17-13, 11:26 PM
#3755
Full Blown 1.1
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Jeff I got her running! Lookin good too. It's been a mad struggle but it's going good. Today I buttoned most of it up but I think the carb is dirty now since I've had it without a filter for a bit now and I ran it out of gas. Otherwise things are looking up to get her to the track for my novice class.
09-18-13, 01:25 AM
#3757
I had 11 on the shelf once.
And more on the floor. But most were cores with something wrong with them.
They've all since been torn down. I'd like to get back to the clean look of just having engines on the shelf. Really classed up the place.
Here is where the dead parts went.
And more on the floor. But most were cores with something wrong with them.
They've all since been torn down. I'd like to get back to the clean look of just having engines on the shelf. Really classed up the place.
Here is where the dead parts went.
09-18-13, 03:14 AM
#3760
Jeff, I'm going to show my wife those pictures so she stops hassling me about ONE 13b on an engine stand in the garage and some misc EFI parts on the shelves. I think your lawn caterpillar would probably shake her up the most.
I did have five 12As (that had been driven hard on cooking oil for pre-mix) and a 13B at one time. She wouldn't even go out into the garage...smelled like something in between an engine bay and a fast food joint in there.
fm
I think your lawn caterpillar would probably shake her up the most. I did have five 12As (that had been driven hard on cooking oil for pre-mix) and a 13B at one time. She wouldn't even go out into the garage...smelled like something in between an engine bay and a fast food joint in there.
fm
Last edited by Fungus Mungus; 09-18-13 at 03:17 AM.
09-18-13, 09:27 PM
#3763
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Granite Falls, WA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Doing a rats nest removal on a buddy's new car..
We got the nikki stripped as well and every vac port on the manifold and carb have been blocked and checked over 10 times in the past 2 days but we still can't figure out why when it starts it revs itself to ~4000rpm then just dies in seconds. The throttle isn't engaged at all but if you press it the car bogs until it just about dies or does die.
I followed Vipernicus' tutorial and removed the choke and all that junk but I still can't figure this out
We got the nikki stripped as well and every vac port on the manifold and carb have been blocked and checked over 10 times in the past 2 days but we still can't figure out why when it starts it revs itself to ~4000rpm then just dies in seconds. The throttle isn't engaged at all but if you press it the car bogs until it just about dies or does die.
I followed Vipernicus' tutorial and removed the choke and all that junk but I still can't figure this out
09-18-13, 09:59 PM
#3764
Sin City Rotary
Doing a rats nest removal on a buddy's new car..
We got the nikki stripped as well and every vac port on the manifold and carb have been blocked and checked over 10 times in the past 2 days but we still can't figure out why when it starts it revs itself to ~4000rpm then just dies in seconds. The throttle isn't engaged at all but if you press it the car bogs until it just about dies or does die.
I followed Vipernicus' tutorial and removed the choke and all that junk but I still can't figure this out
We got the nikki stripped as well and every vac port on the manifold and carb have been blocked and checked over 10 times in the past 2 days but we still can't figure out why when it starts it revs itself to ~4000rpm then just dies in seconds. The throttle isn't engaged at all but if you press it the car bogs until it just about dies or does die.
I followed Vipernicus' tutorial and removed the choke and all that junk but I still can't figure this out
09-18-13, 11:17 PM
#3765
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Granite Falls, WA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
See, I thought that so I tore off everything and went over it top to bottom. I even have a spare manifold that I looked at for sources of leaks.
I sprayed brake cleaner all over and didn't see any idle changes either (not that I could get it to idle long at all)
If it makes a difference, we took off the old exhaust and it's just the stock header and downpipe with a possible exhaust leak at the gasket (the gasket looked pretty shitty, getting new one soon).
09-19-13, 12:39 AM
#3766
Sin City Rotary
See, I thought that so I tore off everything and went over it top to bottom. I even have a spare manifold that I looked at for sources of leaks.
I sprayed brake cleaner all over and didn't see any idle changes either (not that I could get it to idle long at all)
If it makes a difference, we took off the old exhaust and it's just the stock header and downpipe with a possible exhaust leak at the gasket (the gasket looked pretty shitty, getting new one soon).
I sprayed brake cleaner all over and didn't see any idle changes either (not that I could get it to idle long at all)
If it makes a difference, we took off the old exhaust and it's just the stock header and downpipe with a possible exhaust leak at the gasket (the gasket looked pretty shitty, getting new one soon).
hose that went down to the cat convertor?
I'm hoping you meant "carb cleaner."
09-19-13, 10:53 PM
#3769
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Granite Falls, WA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyways I tore the carb apart again today and used hot water, simple green, and a stiff brush to clean it this time. Top to bottom and stripped the rest of the **** off of it. Might go mech secondaries on it, still deciding about the electric plungers (probably will come off in the future).
Anyways it idles at 1200 now. Just gotta get it running properly.
Pics:
09-19-13, 11:21 PM
#3770
Wouldn't that be an awesome lawn art piece? Giant rotary caterpillar feeding on a piston engine. I want one. Hey, I'd like to grab a dead housing from someone so I can get it cleaned up, painted and added to my rotor clock so it has a proper frame.
09-20-13, 12:58 AM
#3771
Installed my brand new Racing Beat muffler. No more weed eater!! It now has a front to back Racing Beat exhaust system. Now I can tackle small thing here and there...
-New weather channel strips for the door frame and window glass
-Miata cup holder
-Stainless brake and clutch lines
-Stainless oil cooler lines
-New idler arm
-Window tint
-New weather channel strips for the door frame and window glass
-Miata cup holder
-Stainless brake and clutch lines
-Stainless oil cooler lines
-New idler arm
-Window tint
09-20-13, 04:58 AM
#3774
Today I found the co2 system leak, pulled the tank for refill tomorrow.
Spent a few hours poring over factory service manuals and diagrams, planning 1) integrating the haltech, wideband o2, and rpm switch system into the factory ecu loom and 2) an upcoming wire tuck.
The EFI book I'm reading made a great point about grounding all ECU-related electronics to the same place so as to avoid ground loop noise interfering with the sensor signals. This made so much sense, and I realized I shouldn't just be tapping into wires randomly and grounding wherever. I also want to draw all signals and power from the same source as well.
Which got me thinking - the term "proper ground" is thrown around a lot - but I have a strong feeling that the truly proper way, in an electrical engineering sense, is not to just pick the closest chassis bolt and call it good. Does anyone have any insider tips? Should everything be grounded back through the harness? What is the proper way to merge multiple ground lines?
I'm ready to do final routing and pull the haltech loom slack back through the firewall. I got my throttle position sensor in finally, with a shiney custom bracket. Thanks Robert! Now all that's mechanically left to do is figure out how to hook up the OMP. I'm going to get creative with some bicycle brake cable.
I might even be so bold as to add in a cold start vacuum advance solenoid system. I'm curious to see how these eBay special brass solenoids do.
Spent a few hours poring over factory service manuals and diagrams, planning 1) integrating the haltech, wideband o2, and rpm switch system into the factory ecu loom and 2) an upcoming wire tuck.
The EFI book I'm reading made a great point about grounding all ECU-related electronics to the same place so as to avoid ground loop noise interfering with the sensor signals. This made so much sense, and I realized I shouldn't just be tapping into wires randomly and grounding wherever. I also want to draw all signals and power from the same source as well.
Which got me thinking - the term "proper ground" is thrown around a lot - but I have a strong feeling that the truly proper way, in an electrical engineering sense, is not to just pick the closest chassis bolt and call it good. Does anyone have any insider tips? Should everything be grounded back through the harness? What is the proper way to merge multiple ground lines?
I'm ready to do final routing and pull the haltech loom slack back through the firewall. I got my throttle position sensor in finally, with a shiney custom bracket. Thanks Robert! Now all that's mechanically left to do is figure out how to hook up the OMP. I'm going to get creative with some bicycle brake cable.
I might even be so bold as to add in a cold start vacuum advance solenoid system. I'm curious to see how these eBay special brass solenoids do.
09-20-13, 10:25 AM
#3775
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 31,119
Received 2,786 Likes
on
1,972 Posts
Which got me thinking - the term "proper ground" is thrown around a lot - but I have a strong feeling that the truly proper way, in an electrical engineering sense, is not to just pick the closest chassis bolt and call it good. Does anyone have any insider tips? Should everything be grounded back through the harness? What is the proper way to merge multiple ground lines?.
so Mazda does a couple of things that seem easy and reasonable.
1. the sensors, knock, CAS, o2, AFM, are shielded, and the shields are all grounded together, this happens to be the wire bolted next to the ECU.
2. the S5 harness has a tinfoil hat. the shield ground has a small branch to a piece of foil, and this foil is wrapped around the harness between the ecu and firewall. the FD isn't, the S5 isn't.
3. the sensors are grounded together. there is a wire from the ECU for the sensor ground, and then it branches.
4. the odd bit, the ground wires are actually all connected to each other, so they basically all branch off of each other, so basically its all one wire anyways. they DO make sure that it grounds on the body, engine, etc, but its really just one wire.
so there are like 3 ground wires in the whole car, and they all connect to each other anyways.