Paulieboy72

So got a mazda fuel pump from atkins. When car is idling it runs rough close tonflooding out with the pump running 84 gsl, when I shut fuel pump off after about 30 seconds the idle evens right out then starts to die from lack of fuel, turn pump back on and it starts to flood out again but stays running just roughly again till I again turn the pump off. Fresh rebuild has 4 heat cycles and about 8 miles of driving. Any ideas or suggeations? Tried using a fuel regulator no change, also turned A/F screw all the way in no change, brought it back out to 2.5 turns floats arw set per the FSM and newish plugs.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I wonder if the fuel return is working?

Paulieboy72

Hm, how would I check that? I have a check valve on it. I did notice the check valve/cut valve near the tank is is not connected. How do I check the return? It just seems like the carb is pushing just a hair more fuel out than what the plugs can burn efficiently, until I lean it out by shutting off the fuel once I do that the car runs great for a minute or two then I have to turn the pump back on

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

My thought was that if the return isn't working, then fuel gets backed up and causes it to flood.

I'd try the flow test to see how much the pump is suppling.

Paulieboy72

I will do that again, 1.5 quarts per min right?
also I blew air through check valve seems to make bubbles in the tank so the air is going back ti tank as should the fuel

Paulieboy72

Does the shape of the fuel filter affect flow....I.e. in line vs T shaped filter?

Paulieboy72

So I found out the fuel pump from Atkins rotary bushes four to six PSI which is way too much for the stock Nicki

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I've never heard of anyone doing this, but the return restrictor raises fuel pressure. I wonder what the outcome would be if you removed it. It would in theory decrease fuel pressure.

Paulieboy72

Can't hurt ill tey it and report back

Paulieboy72

KC, didn't change anything, however did notice a tiny bit of fuel comming out while car running when I put the xheck valve back in. Also my aftermarket gauges don't work all the time( cheap amazon ones) oil, temp. Beneficial to switch to mechanical? Thoughts?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I'm at a loss of the flooding.

The mechanical gauges will work. I have iEquus electrical gauges, but they do make a reasonable priced machinal set.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ufacturer=true

Paulieboy72

I really believe it is the fuel pump. I talked to dan at atkins rotary he said the stock pump for series 2 pushea 4 to 6 psi. This is too much for the stock nikki. I have a 1-2.5 psi pump on the way.
on the gauges, would better quality elwcteical gauges be better? Not sure I like the idea of hot oil in the passenger compartment. I have a stock oil sender hooked up to the gauges but no luck. I have ordered a oil sender block.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I like electrical gauges for the easy and, like you, don't want oil or water in the cabin. I doubt a stock sending unit would work with an after-market gauge.

Paulieboy72

The ones I ordered came with sending units however they didn't read, oil especially when it got hot. At cold and thick it would read good but then as the oil heated up it would show 0 same with the temp. Mabe not grounded well enough? Or just crappy gauges?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The threads make the ground as long as you don't use tape or sealant.

Paulieboy72

Got my sender block today for under the oil filter. Does this need to be grounded?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

No, the ground is the body of the sending unit to the sender block. Do not use any form of sealant. To test to ensure the sender block is properly grounded to the iron, with an ohm meter put one lead on the sender block and the other on the rear iron. You should have zero ohms.

Paulieboy72

Ok will do. When I get my new fuel pump I will report back on the idle results