Man, that's a good looking set of BBS wheels.

 

Yes, please post some pictures. I would like to see the mods you are speaking of. I was not aware there were any chassis differences between manual and power setups. Should have only needed the pieces i found for you.

-billy

 

Billy, the stock power steering housing looks like this:



That bracket is welded on and is the only way to attach it.

I made my own out of a pipe clamp and a section of PVC pipe. I had to redrill the holes in the pipeclamp to make them line up. No biggie.



The second modification I had to do is that I used the "cone" from my shaft housing. I do not know what the manual car's fiewall looks like or the size of the cone, but mine made the steering column sit up to high and had to be cut. I threw away the pieces that I cut, but here is what I am talking about.



While I have your atention, I wanted to check to see if I am doing something right and if so, what is an easier way to do it. I cannont get this to easily line up and that is with jacking up the suspension. In the pictures it looks like they line up, but the angle is wrong. Am I doing something wrong?





Thanks for your help Billy!

 

Some more pictures:

Test fitting the seat:





Plumbing the turbo and remounting the fan




Finally getting the engine off the jack, it lined up perfectly according to my measurements:



Flipped the bolts in the wheel well (I hope there is nothing wrong with doing that, let me know if there is):



WG sitts very close to the Re-Speed kit:




New older steering wheel. Need it big for running my manual rack:



Mounting the rack and then realizing that I do not have a socket big enough.



More to come.

 

looks like if you flip the bracket over, it will line up, but that wouldn't really look right. I cant say though as I don't have the part

 

Since you are running coilovers, I wonder if you'll be able to get away with a 33 offset and no spacers. What is the backspacing, do you know?

 

Yes, the Ground Control make it a tight fit. My current wheels (for sale) the fronts are +42mm and I clear the adjustment **** with 10mm of back spacing. I will have to test fit and figure it out, but I'm pretty sure I will need spacers.

 

Yes, a few more differences between the power cars and manual cars. Glad you got it figured out.

Flipping the bolts around on the rear pickups is not a problem.

We mark the drivers side rear control arm before they ship. Make sure you used to correct one. You also should have the stock tension rods still installed until you adjust the clevis to the correct length.

Then simply force the rear arm to angle and meet the bracket at the same time you twist the stock lover control arm a bit to align the bracket and clevis. This is sometimes easier with the tension rod and the clevis bracket screwed into the lower control arm.

It is a tight fit. The ENE bushings are nice and fat and stiff. Makes the install a bit harder.

-billy

 

I'm very jealous of that cage. What kind is it, and how much did it run you?

 

Thanks Billy!

Yup, some minor differences that I just wanted the power steering guys to be aware of. Nothing that a saw, drill, and pipe clamp can't fix.

Bolts flipped looks cleaner, so I'm glad that is not an issue.

I checked the markings on driver's and passanger's before installing and once again when I was fighting with it. I also used the stock tension rods to ensure it is at the correct length (although I was tempted to mess with it). I will probably have to get someone to help me (I have no friends) to lift the brake/shock assembly to get it to align.

So far so good!

 

Really? Probably the cheapest and easiest thing that I installed here--unfortunately. It is just the Autopower Race roll bar but they also make the weld-in cage that attaches to it if I ever go that far.

http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP591

I bought it from a local speed shop that had to order it. I try to support the local vendors and they split the shipping with me. The bar is necessary to properly mount the harnesses and the back brace on the seats that is now required by NASA and SCCA. I still run HPDE and I do not think it is required, but I try to do upgrades that are upgradeable so that I waste less money later (the exception being my brand new wheels and tires that I now have to unload).

 

I'm jealous because it's pretty much exactly what I want. I worked for a driving school for a year and installed enough full cages to know I don't want one in my DD. I need something to properly mount harnesses to, and that looks exactly like what I need. That, and it's the only option for the car short of bending one, and I'm not at that point with this car.

 

Cool, come give me some driving lessons as I will need them with this beast. By the time that thing gets off jack stands, I am going to have to learn to drive it all over again.

With shipping, it will run you about $600 using the above link.

 

Yes, removing the lower control arm to strut housing bolts will eliminate allot of the fighting, since the control arm will not be as constrained. You might want to try that.

-billy

 

Some how whey were swapped, thus the wrong angle. I guess that is a side effect of my girlfriend helping me.

 

Your making excellent progress! I wish I still had the same drive as you, unfortunately it starts to slow after you work on cars all day as an occupation too...

 

It has been a while since I updated this since I have been working and traveling. The work I did get done on my car (it is at a friends house in the suburbs since I live in the city with no garage), I did not get pictures of as I forgot my camera.

I received the Mariah WB package. I was disapointed because they did not check the box before they shipped it. I received only the fenders and the bumper--no instructions, hardware, baffles, reinforement bar, or instructions. Since I paid over $2k for this (Including shipping and the Hella driving light kit). Once again, the car is sitting waiting for Mariah.

The steering rack installation is complete.

The passanger seat and harness was finally installed last weekend (another major PITA).

I had to move the ignition coils a the Re-Speed steering shaft runs right through where they were mounted. When I went to move them, I realized that the wires were cut too short and I had to solder some extra wire length in there to make it reach the coils. I also installed new 10mm Taylor Made wires that I picked up in the for sale section.

Turbo is hooked up, primed and the car was ran long enough to warm up the oil for an oil change (and to verify that the coils were wired correctly and all sensors and gauges are working). Since the exhaust needs to be modified to reach the new manifold, that puppy was loud. I also installed a 11psi spring in the wastegate (I think the one in there was a 6 or 7 psi).

My wheels came in. They look pretty good, but there is a little pitting on a couple of them due to over polishing. My issue with them is that they did NOT come with center caps (as the seller said they would). I am waiting for a reply from the seller. Why do people do this crap? Tires are on order, a couple pictures on my kitchen floor.

 

I also received my new Moser axles in and am awaiting the rest of the Re-Speed 5 lug/BBK conversion to come in.

I sourced an entire TII brake setup along with new front bearings for $100, the only setback is that this was on a shell sitting under a tree and I have to knock the rust off and fix it up bit. The kit also requires '85 rear bearings which I bought from Atkins for about $80.

Pulling this crap apart:



Cleaning off the rust:



Plenty of it:



Front hubs:



Sanded, put some rust proofing on the centers, and prepping for paint.



Ceramic brake paint along with the centers (as they look like crap when they rust:



The body work, hooking up the exhaust, 5-lug conversion, and re-tuning will be done by KDR. I will be dropping it off next Saturday (assuming the Mariah parts come in on time).

 

Wow, I can't believe how much the car has changed in such a short time!

It doesn't sound like I'll be seeing you at the Dragon this year though. Maybe next year?

Keep up the good work man....

 

Too bad you weren't able to get all of the Mariah pieces in one shipment, hopefully they come soon.

 

Yeah, no way will I make it. Car runs great, and I could just get the exhaust welded up and go, but I need to get this thing finished and painted and then I can sleep at night again. Plus, work is killing me and I don't think I can take time off right now.

 

thats a sexy beast.

 

What did you use for the seat slider? That's not a factory unit is it?

 

When I bought the car it had a Corbeau race seat in the drivers position (if anyone wants that, it is free to good home, just pick it up). So, I reused the Corbeau seat slider and bracket that I already had and ordered a passanger side one. I bought some diamond plate at Lowes and cut that to size, doubled it just to be safe (two layers) and mounted that on the bracket and slider. I then marked on my platform where the harness needs to go through the seat and cut that out of the platform. Total pain to do (especially mounting it over new, thick carpet), but I am happy with the results. Once I find the "right" position, I will mount the back brace.

Tires and Re-Speed BBK kit cam in today, car is almost ready to roll (and paint).

 

Got any pictures of the seat? I would gladly take it, and I'm pretty close to you.