Hi guys,

I read lot of threads about GSL-SE no start troubleshooting procedures and so far I had no luck in getting my car to start. The car has last time ran about 4 yrs ago. Here what has been done and tested:

1. New plugs
2. New cables
3. Drained fuel tank
4. New fuel.
5. New fuel filter
6. New battery.

I have T1 and L1 sparks when cranking. There are no blown fuses that I can see. I have not checked the injectors, the fuel pump or the ECU. When my friend and I checked for the sparks, he was cranking the engine and I couldn't hear the injectors ticking. I think the problem is in one or several of these things. The frustration and inpatience is building up fast, the car is in a good shape and I would love to get it on the road again. It has 140K miles on the clock. Where do I go from here?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Checked the main relay, it clicks with the key in ON position, igniters are ticking while cranking the engine. That leaves only few things: igniters gummed up, bad fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay or a problem with AFM. Anything else? I do have a new fuel pump and will install it and test the fuel supply to the igniters.

 

Checked the fuel supply by disconnecting the main fuel line and pouring some gas in a canister. Manually opened AFM flap door and cranked, no luck.

I think I am left with:

1. water thermo sensor
2. ECU
3. Clogged ignitors
4. Low fuel pressure
5. weak spark

Anybody comment please?

 

The ignitors are an ignition part on the side of the dizzy. I think you mean the injectors. Right?

 

Yes I meant injectors, sorry about that. Last night I found water thermo sensor to be way out of spec, bot cold a and warm. I ordered a replacement from O'Reily and will get it today.

Question could an out of spec WTS cause no start? I wouldn't think so.

Now I am left with the following:

AFM test
Injectors test
Fuel pressure test

After that I'll be out of ideas. Any help is appreciated.

 

Need to eliminate as many things as possible before you start zeroing in on specific part,can get expensive with no/poor results have you chasing your tail.Soo.....you have spark,you hear injectors clicking while cranking-this is good news,means all circuitry for injector control from injectors to inside car to pcm and back is good. Are the battery and starter up to task of cranking engine over fast enough to start? Have you pulled plugs to see if wet after extended cranking? Yes? Are they dry? Time to check fuel system: there is a small green connector coming out of harness by air flow meter. It can be used to pressurize fuel system, couple inches of wire+two 1/4" male spade terminals inserted into green connector,turn key on,pump will run. If no pump,remove storage bin behind driver seat,there's a harness that goes thru the floor( big grommet) down to fuel pump. Disconnect the connector and test harness side with test light,,,,,key on,plug jumpered should light,or use voltmeter,should be around battery voltage. If so,get under car,remove shield for filter/pump assembly and get eyes on pump wiring from floor to pump,ok?damaged(mice)? Key on,plug jumpered,tap pump lightly with screwdriver or rubber mallet. Possibly gummed up with old gas,may start running. If not need a pump. Would replace pump first and filter, then key on,plug jumpered pump will run and pressurize system & you can check for leaks. Don't recommend starting/running car with plug jumpered. Happy hunting,post back with results. Will look in on this thread periodically.

 

Tested the pump with a short jumper on the test connector. It runs with the key in ON position. I havent tested the fuel pressure yet, but the pump runs. The plugs are dry, so this means no fuel in the combustion. This means the injectors are gummed up, right? What else? As a test I also put a screwdriver inside the air intake flap door to activate the AFM switch and cranked it up, no luck.

Like I said I found water thermo sensor to be waay out of spec. I am getting a replacement today and will install it and try it out. If that doesn't get it started, I am down to gummed up injectors. True? What else?

 

Why did car sit for four years,did it not run anymore? The FI system on these cars is very reliable,water temp sensor could be bad,wouldn't be my first guess,how are you testing it? Again recommend you stay focused on fuel system til you prove it to be 100%not the problem. Is the pump quiet or noisy?The fact injectors are clicking is proof the pintle inside is moving and not gummed up,but injector body/fuel rail could be..trash,rust.. Were it me i would disconnect fuel line where it comes up firewall by brake booster. Follow output line from pump,you want the pressure line not return line. Put the disconnected hose into a container and have someone turn key on and see what comes out(quality) and how much.. quantity. Should get at least a quart in 30 seconds or so. If fuel is contaminated,rust,dirt,water...wouldn't hook up gauge to test pressure as gauge will be filled with junk ruining it. If this is case you're looking at complete fyel system cleaning,tank,lines,fuel rails etc. If not much of anything comes out while testing, take fuel filter off and drain into container then tap it on a paper towel to see what may come out. There is a small cone shaped filter/screen on inlet side of pump which can get clogged with gunk,especially if fuel tank is dirty. Remove hose from pump inlet to get to it,likely need to pinch off hose so you don't get a flood of fuel. will look back in on this thread tomorrow to see your progress.

 

Some good guidance from GSLSEforme. Fix the fuel issue first. Don't try replacing random parts
until you do.

 

Thats right, now testing the injectors and the fuel pressure to the FI system. Will post the results.