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Hey guys, I finally picked up some new wheels for my 83 GS and the bolt pattern seems to be correct but the hole in the center for the hubs is too big. I understand that you really don't want to be "lug centered" and want your wheels "hub centered". Does anyone know how I would find the right hub centering rings to make these fit? Or did I get the wrong wheels?
Thank you! First time putting new wheels on and not having them just fit. Pic for visual, even though you can't really see the hub size issue. Wheel on hub
Oh and what size lug bolts are people running too? The ones I ordered online (mostly blindly) of course don't fit. They seem to be too long and don't tighten the wheel down to the hub/drum.
The cars center hub is 59.6 mm so you will have to determine the enter bore of the wheels you bought (the place you bought them from should have provided that info when you bought them) and then buy hub rings to make up the difference, the lug nut/bolts should be M12 x 1.5
Hey guys, I finally picked up some new wheels for my 83 GS and the bolt pattern seems to be correct but the hole in the center for the hubs is too big. I understand that you really don't want to be "lug centered" and want your wheels "hub centered". Does anyone know how I would find the right hub centering rings to make these fit? Or did I get the wrong wheels?
Thank you! First time putting new wheels on and not having them just fit. Pic for visual, even though you can't really see the hub size issue. Wheel on hub
Grab a vernier calipre and measure both male and female centre bores and look for that size hubcentric ring online, for (stupid made up) example: 87.3 x 67.4 hubcentric ring. They are available for pretty much every combo between common sizes
They usually allow 0.1mm clearance, so the numbers you find online will reflect that.
Thanks guys. I did the cheap method with a standard measuring tape to estimate based on sizes I see listed online. Looks like 59.6 stock to 64.1mm on the Rotas. Having a harder time finding that size. I'll have to get the calipers out and get a closer measurement. Good call @WANKfactor .
If that's a 15" x 7" wheel the center bore is 67.1 mm, you need a hub centric ring that has a 59.6 mm inner diameter, and a outer diameter of 67.1 mm. If it's a different size wheel search for it online, any listing of wheels for sale will have the center bore information listed.
I run my Rota's without. I've had Mazdatrix studs and Muteki lugs since 2012 and experienced zero issues with Weds, Kosei and Rota wheels. I torque the wheels to spec off the ground, then again once on the ground.
Thanks guys. I did not go to Rota, I bought them on eBay late one night... definitely a questionable decision. But the seller was reputable and delivered them in good shape quickly, I just hadn't dealt with this before and came here looking for a shortcut hoping there was a common size..
I measured it all out and finally found some cheap 73.1 to 59.6 mm hub centric rings on Amazon, got them shipped, they fit perfect. The bolts actually fit too once I got the wheels on properly, I just thought they wouldn't because there were so much longer than the stock ones. I unmounted the wheel because I have to go get tires put on these things but I'll share pictures once it's all mounted up.
Good to know some people are running without them too. Makes me feel better about my choice of cheap Amazon ones.
Back in the 80s when these cars were new, ANY aftermarket wheels were NOT hub-centric, and we all lived to talk about it. Point being, it wasn't until the 2000s that engineers figured it might reduce some vibration by making the wheels mount on the hubs to an interference fit. If everything lines up properly and you're using tapered shank studs or lugs, it really doesn't add much safety or performance. Our cars don't weigh much, and there's not that much loading on the lugs to begin with.
All true however, it's nice to have the wheel held by the hub ring when putting it back on instead wrestling with a wobbling wheel while starting the lug nuts, small point, but important to some. :-)
All wheels with a tapered lug nut are lug centric. The center bore is just there to guide you on. The tapers mating together is what centers the wheel.
Snug all of the lugs hand tight before torquing and you'll be fine. You should do that anyway, to be honest. If you torque one lug nut down before even starting the others, even with a "hubcentric" wheel, the wheel will be off center and after driving, you'll have three loose lugs. Try it for yourself if you want, it's kind of an eye opener.
You'd probably go nuts if you saw a 240Z... they didn't have center bores at all.
A lot of racing wheels not only aren't "hubcentric" but the center bore isn't even centered on the wheel! You need to use a lug adapter on the balancer to balance them.
Back in the 80s when these cars were new, ANY aftermarket wheels were NOT hub-centric, and we all lived to talk about it. Point being, it wasn't until the 2000s that engineers figured it might reduce some vibration by making the wheels mount on the hubs to an interference fit.
NO wheels mount with an interference fit, at least not intentionally. You don't need to press the wheels on and off.
Newer cars in a humid environment definitely DO have tight enough clearance to be an interference fit, because the slightest bit of corrosion makes removing the wheel nearly impossible without using forceful tools. Toyota recommends antiseize paste on the hubs to prevent this, though anything that isolates the metal from oxidizing in the air will work. I like brake caliper grease for its high temp qualities.
Our cars weren't designed to be that close in tolerance, and to my point above, aftermarket wheels never even considered hub-centric mounting.
The bolts actually fit too once I got the wheels on properly, I just thought they wouldn't because there were so much longer than the stock ones. I unmounted the wheel because I have to go get tires put on these things but I'll share pictures once it's all mounted up.
Good to know some people are running without them too. Makes me feel better about my choice of cheap Amazon ones.
Originally Posted by inuissus_cendi
Oh and what size lug bolts are people running too? The ones I ordered online (mostly blindly) of course don't fit. They seem to be too long and don't tighten the wheel down to the hub/drum.
You've probably got the wheels on now and are running them without issue, but let me share what I found out.
I too ordered some new lug bolts and recently had my rear drum apart changing the spring and slave. After reinstalling the drum and putting the lug bolt in to get an idea for wheel spacing/mounting, I turned the drum to check clearance and I could hear it rubbing on the caliper spring. I removed the drum, installed the lug bolt, and watched how far it can go in before it hit the spring. I spun the lug bolt around to see if it'll hit anything else and it hit the caliper adjuster. I backed it out further and found the sweet spot. Installed the wheel to full tight, turned, and it was hitting. Found out I need either a shorter lug bolt or some spacers/adapters. I had some spacers in the drawer so I went that route for now.
My point is to just make sure the longer lug bolt is not hitting anything inside the rear drums.
05-27-24, 12:23 PM
Got Rota wheels in 4x110, hubs don't center?
But the seller was reputable and delivered them in good shape quickly, I just hadn't dealt with this before and came here looking for a shortcut hoping there was a common size..
