Got my baby back!
#27
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Just thinking here, why not try to get your hands on a second OMP rod and use 2 of them? Maybe Joe has one lying around?
As far as my headers. Those are SDJ headers. Each were custom made to order and to your specific uses. Mine set me back about 600$, it collect to 2.5" with longer primaries. I say were because they are no longer in production anymore. Once I'm done my welding school and get some decent cash in my pockets I plan on trying to get the rights to reproduce them. I know banzaitoyota has them, along with rotaryshack. I'm not sure what is the status with rotaryshack, but I know Banzai doesn't want to produce them due to the high cost of stainless. If I do end up doing some I too will probably just produce them to order.
Here's some shots of it, the only addition that I've made to them since I received them was add the EGT probes in there.
As far as my headers. Those are SDJ headers. Each were custom made to order and to your specific uses. Mine set me back about 600$, it collect to 2.5" with longer primaries. I say were because they are no longer in production anymore. Once I'm done my welding school and get some decent cash in my pockets I plan on trying to get the rights to reproduce them. I know banzaitoyota has them, along with rotaryshack. I'm not sure what is the status with rotaryshack, but I know Banzai doesn't want to produce them due to the high cost of stainless. If I do end up doing some I too will probably just produce them to order.
Here's some shots of it, the only addition that I've made to them since I received them was add the EGT probes in there.
#29
Grey-Bruce Rotorhead
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Looks good! I understand the effect of length of runners for intake with regards to torque band; how does the length in headers effect the engine?
Huh?????
Huh?????
#30
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (2)
For headers it works a little differently as i'm finding out on the Formula Car that I'm designing headers for right now. Having the correct lengths for the headers gives you that linear power curve. On the honda engine that I'm working with right now, without having the correct length primaries, we had an S shape sort of speak near the top of the power band so giving you a flat spot in a certain RPM range. What that actually translates to is in another S shape on the torque curve. If you drive a car which has a power curve like that, its like you get power, then same power for a while making harder to accelerate, then you have another jump in power and if you take a turn can make it harder because if you float around that area your tail would be too tail happy in a not very controllable manner. The Collector plays a bigger part in gaining top power and best torque though. Having a longer, smooth merging section provides better scavenging of exhaust gases which normally turns into better torque figures hence increasing HP. This is my dyno graph from last time I went to the dyno,
You can note how flat the torque curve is in there giving me smooth power transition to the wheels. Hopefully now with my longer runners, ITB's, better fuel correction as it was running way too rich in the top end, the second gen Ignition system, and switching to an E-fan, would provide me with about 165-170whp. Should be a good benchmark if I reach that
You can note how flat the torque curve is in there giving me smooth power transition to the wheels. Hopefully now with my longer runners, ITB's, better fuel correction as it was running way too rich in the top end, the second gen Ignition system, and switching to an E-fan, would provide me with about 165-170whp. Should be a good benchmark if I reach that
#31
Grey-Bruce Rotorhead
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So Nismo's been a HUGE help with getting my car back on the road! Two weekends in and the fuel pump is in; some wiring; some interior work; and Nismo fabbed up a battery tray for behind the bin for the 15lb battery!
I got my alternator relocation kit from Atkins. It's a good solid piece: 1/2 inch bracket and 7/8 pivot arm. It arrived in no time. I wish that I could say the same for my needle valve from Rotaryshack. But that's another story.
Because of stupid Vista, the pics will be coming later.
I got my alternator relocation kit from Atkins. It's a good solid piece: 1/2 inch bracket and 7/8 pivot arm. It arrived in no time. I wish that I could say the same for my needle valve from Rotaryshack. But that's another story.
Because of stupid Vista, the pics will be coming later.
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