IanS

iTrader: (4)

OK. I have a 12A that I would like to know the value of. In reality I am planning on building something bigger so I need some sort of baseline to start.



The list:

Sterling Nikki
RB SP primaries
Ito SP secondaries
RB race exhaust
RB road race header (old, still in good usable shape)
RB light steel flywheel
RB street/strip clutch
Atkins oil pan baffle plate

Black powder coated irons
Chrome powder coated housings

Housings are in very good shape as far as flaking. 1 (front) had maybe 1mm and other (rear) had maybe .5mm NO chatter marks.

Engine was built using Atkins soft seal/spring kit (mostly OEM). Brand new apex seals (OEM) were bought from MazdaTrix and installed. Engine has ~1800 miles. Engine would come with all items listed plus front cover, etc. It would be a long block with both manifolds, RUNNING CONDITION.



Any input is appreciated.

-IanS

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I'd say add up the cost of all the items less shipping and that would give you the number it's worth. It's practically brand new so there's no reason you should lose any money on the block alone.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm, I wonder what the going rate is for labor....... lol

Prices are from memory

Housings - 200
RB flywheel - 300
oil pan baffle plate - 50 (I think)
Header (worth 100 I figure) - 100
Sterling carb - 350
Street/Strip clutch (used) - 50 (estimated value since used)

Not sure if I can count this stuff or not

Apex seals - 300
Rebuild kit A (Atkins) - 265
RB templates 35 each (I think) - 70
RENTAL of Ito template - 50 (really long story)
Labor - ?????

Total of top list - 1050
Total of bottom list - 685
Grand total - 1735

So Grand total is parts and all associated costs and NOT counting labor costs, including tools and equipment needed to complete certain steps of the project - such as carbide burrs, die grinder, torque wrench, etc.

Soooo, it SHOULD be safe to say that if I were to ask 1500 - that would be reasonable, right?

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Well given that you built it yourself, I'd say sell it for cost. Costs for things like tools/equipment that you needed really can't be passed along to the buyer, since you did not build this specifically for a customer and to do so you needed those things. It would be the same as seeing an added charge from Mr.Lube for the grease gun they bought. $1500 for a practically brand new streetported engine with a header and aftermarket carb is one hell of a deal. In fact, where were you two months ago? You could have saved me $3000.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Just cause you paid X amount for some part 6 months ago doesn't mean
you can expect to get X amout back when you sell it. Most of the times a reasonable
price for a like new, but used part, is 1/2 X.

I would expect you could maybe get 800 to 1000 for that whole setup. Your not
a known engine builder and your not providing any warranty service. I know it
doesn't sound like as much as your wanting, but thats what its worth IMHO. If
you find the right person.

You might try asking this question in the racing section as folks there buy and sell
engines more frequently.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Normally, the equasion boils down to how bad do you want it gone divided by what someone else is willing to give. (G=HB/WTG) Wheather or not it's a good deal is strictly a matter of opinion. Looks like you have a good intellegent basis to start from though Ian.

patmac6075

iTrader: (26)

Things are worth what somebody else is willing to pay (think baseball cards). With that being said, $1500 -$1800 is not an unreasonable price to pay for a "turn-key" engine with low mileage and all of those performance parts. I think t_g_farrell has a legitimate point...you are not a known engine builder and you're not providing guarantee, but if you were the price would most likely double or maybe triple.
Just my opinion.

Kentetsu

For a front to back performance package like that, I think $1,500 would be a steal. In fact, I think you should bring it right over so I can take a look at it.

Good luck with the sale....





.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

Tell you what. When I get the new engine built I'll throw it in the back and drive to your place where you can test drive the 12A and then help me install the 13B... ****, just realized Im gonna have to get different personalized plates. Ugh, its always something lol.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

best to get the personalized plates for what it will be when it's done.

ashleyanne

^ +1

Should have waited.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

No biggie really, just gotta change it from 35CI X2 to 40CI X2

Ive had the 35 one for I think 2 years now.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Neat plate idea. I was thinking 1L V8 EATER for custom plates, but I'll have to find out if it's true before buying them. I'd hate to get smoked by the first stock Mustang I came across. That would just make me feel silly.

Question for you, after the porting did you change the jet sizes in the Sterling? If so what size? I have 55's in the primaries now and with the SP 13B, I'm not sure how much bigger I should go. Any help would be appreciated.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

I cant remember. I know that the primaries and secondaries are pretty close in size though. Im gonna be messing with the car here soon and Ill try to remember to check them.