(TURBO) The Chronicles of a Turbo II Swap
#176
I can has a Hemi? Yes...
iTrader: (2)
FYI,
I have a fresh streetported Cosmo RE engine with all new seals and springs. I run higher boost than stock (15-17 psi on a 63-1 Turbo).
I still have a fuel blow-by problem in my crankcase oil. I even have a breather filter on the filler neck with a mini catch can, with no luck.
Again, the blow by is only fuel, not oil.
I too will am changing the oil every 1K miles, but then again, I drive my card very hard.
I am just gonna live with it.
I have a fresh streetported Cosmo RE engine with all new seals and springs. I run higher boost than stock (15-17 psi on a 63-1 Turbo).
I still have a fuel blow-by problem in my crankcase oil. I even have a breather filter on the filler neck with a mini catch can, with no luck.
Again, the blow by is only fuel, not oil.
I too will am changing the oil every 1K miles, but then again, I drive my card very hard.
I am just gonna live with it.
#177
I also have fuel finding it's way into my oil. One way to get rid of it is to run a vacuum line from the filler neck to the inlet of the turbo.
Durring the winter I'm going to get a catch can like DF has and run a line from the top of it to the inlet of the turbo. With the catch can you can separate out the fuel/oil from the air so you don't have to suck it through the the turbo and coat the inside of the intercooler with oil.
Durring the winter I'm going to get a catch can like DF has and run a line from the top of it to the inlet of the turbo. With the catch can you can separate out the fuel/oil from the air so you don't have to suck it through the the turbo and coat the inside of the intercooler with oil.
#178
FB+FC=F-ME
In addition to the leaking injector syndrome,rotaries also route their fuel tank vapor canisters through the crankcase,which just adds another potential source of fuel contamination.
If you have a stripped block,you need more than a breather to evacuate the crankcase vapors properly.The factory system employs a vacuum check valve at the turbo,a hose at the filler cap,a hose at the base of the filler and a crankcase ventilation valve(PCV).
When I ran a carb,to prevent crankcase sludging I had to keep the ventilation valve and its hoses to the manifold vacuum source (to pull the vapors out),and a small breather filter (to let fresh air in).
If the little diamond shaped do-hicky in Setzep's diagram is an air filter,then thats about it.:-)
If you have a stripped block,you need more than a breather to evacuate the crankcase vapors properly.The factory system employs a vacuum check valve at the turbo,a hose at the filler cap,a hose at the base of the filler and a crankcase ventilation valve(PCV).
When I ran a carb,to prevent crankcase sludging I had to keep the ventilation valve and its hoses to the manifold vacuum source (to pull the vapors out),and a small breather filter (to let fresh air in).
If the little diamond shaped do-hicky in Setzep's diagram is an air filter,then thats about it.:-)
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 10-24-04 at 11:59 AM.
#180
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
The oil fill neck has to be cut down a little,but it clears.I see what you mean about the AC clearance though,that would be an issue.
Hybrids are nice,but there will be a bit of lag compared to the stock T18.I run a TO4B hi-fi on the stock S5 hotside.It has a bit of lag until 3000rpm,but its kinda nice being able to drive around town under vaccum and not stress the engine.A streetported S5 13B with no boost is still almost 200hp.My TO4B hybrid moves enough air to feed 14psi all day long with air temps remaining nearly ambient after the IC.Best part about hybrids is they bolt right up.
Are you running a boost controller?Normally the S5 turbo wont boost over 6psi without a boost controller.(the S5 ECU has a factory electronic boost controller,but I see your running S4 controls)
The RB 3" downpipe is nice.Its thin wall stainless so its very lightweight.Heres mine.Not shiney,but stainless last forever....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01489.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01506.jpg
Hybrids are nice,but there will be a bit of lag compared to the stock T18.I run a TO4B hi-fi on the stock S5 hotside.It has a bit of lag until 3000rpm,but its kinda nice being able to drive around town under vaccum and not stress the engine.A streetported S5 13B with no boost is still almost 200hp.My TO4B hybrid moves enough air to feed 14psi all day long with air temps remaining nearly ambient after the IC.Best part about hybrids is they bolt right up.
Are you running a boost controller?Normally the S5 turbo wont boost over 6psi without a boost controller.(the S5 ECU has a factory electronic boost controller,but I see your running S4 controls)
The RB 3" downpipe is nice.Its thin wall stainless so its very lightweight.Heres mine.Not shiney,but stainless last forever....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01489.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01506.jpg
Nice pics!
#182
hey steve ,, i heard that the 3" rb hangs really low. i was going to get it until i heard that. is it true? i really want to buy that downpipe for my H18.
carl.
carl.
Last edited by CarlRx7; 10-24-04 at 06:53 PM.
#183
FB+FC=F-ME
It has a slight angle to it,but a little heat from a torch and push,and its fine.No distortion or collapsing.Its just a little tiny prod to get it tucked in.The stainless is so thin it only takes a little bit of heat.Its pretty cool actually,for its size the thing is so light you can barely tell your holding it!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01505.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01505.jpg
#184
Originally Posted by CarlRx7
hey steve ,, i heard that the 3" rb hangs really low. i was going to get it until i heard that. is it true? i really want to buy that downpipe for my H18.
carl.
carl.
It shouldn't hang any lower than a cork sport right? If they are both made to mount up to a stock cat, they should hang about the same as on another right?
#185
FB+FC=F-ME
Youd think that,but I never had to mess with my heavy steel RB 2.5" downpipe.The 3" downpipe needed to be bent up a little because it was just more massive and I didnt want it to be too low.I guess maybe the 2.5" pipe had an angle too,but since it was smaller around, I didnt notice.Its been a couple years since I had the 2.5" so I cant remember anymore......
Im guessing the down angle is because the FC motor mounts and tranny mount hold the engine at a different angle that what Ive got.I could have raised the back mount up a little to fix the pipe's angle,but then the tranny shift box would have hit the top of the tunnel.
Im guessing the down angle is because the FC motor mounts and tranny mount hold the engine at a different angle that what Ive got.I could have raised the back mount up a little to fix the pipe's angle,but then the tranny shift box would have hit the top of the tunnel.
#186
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Youd think that,but I never had to mess with my heavy steel RB 2.5" downpipe.The 3" downpipe needed to be bent up a little because it was just more massive and I didnt want it to be too low.I guess maybe the 2.5" pipe had an angle too,but since it was smaller around, I didnt notice.Its been a couple years since I had the 2.5" so I cant remember anymore......
Im guessing the down angle is because the FC motor mounts and tranny mount hold the engine at a different angle that what Ive got.I could have raised the back mount up a little to fix the pipe's angle,but then the tranny shift box would have hit the top of the tunnel.
Im guessing the down angle is because the FC motor mounts and tranny mount hold the engine at a different angle that what Ive got.I could have raised the back mount up a little to fix the pipe's angle,but then the tranny shift box would have hit the top of the tunnel.
So it's more a matter of a 3" pipe vs a 2.5 " pipe right? So would there be a differance between the RB 3" and CS 3"?
thanks, gotta figure out if I should return it before it's too late.
#187
FB+FC=F-ME
Well,since either pipe is made for the same engine in the same chassis,Im guessing they would be made to the same specs(in other words,both probably have that angle.)
Im not sure what the CS pipe is made from(mild or stainless),but the RB's thin stainless construction made bending it an easy task.
Im not sure what the CS pipe is made from(mild or stainless),but the RB's thin stainless construction made bending it an easy task.
#190
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
To each their own.But for $125.00 new, the 3" RB pipe is a pretty damn good value.
Yeah, I guess I'll just keep the rb one and bend it if it needs it. I already have it so I might as well keep it.
#192
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Washington
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front cover switch
Hey guys, I am almost done with a turboFB project. I am having a shop install my turbo etc and my brand new turbo has been leaking oil out the seals. I bought a rebuild kit and replaced all the seals and they still leak. Well the shop called me today and told me they found the problem. Apparently they said there is a baffle plate which is decreasing the flow of the oil return because I switched the front covers to an SE cover. I figured if theres so many other t2 swaps out there how come I've never heard of this problem? Does anyone know anything on this? Thanks
#193
RX-7 Alumni
Thread Starter
I'm using a stock SE front cover and no problems at all. Really depends on how you ran the drain line and what size fitting you used.
Please post a thread on the 1st gen forum as I don't want this one cluttered up with everyones problems--you're hi-jacking my thread for your problem
Thanks
Please post a thread on the 1st gen forum as I don't want this one cluttered up with everyones problems--you're hi-jacking my thread for your problem
Thanks
#195
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South Cali, Glendale
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Again, gorgeous setup. I love the way you did your OEM install, then started going on with braided lines, and some color schemes in your car. The FMIC looks good amogst other things. Your car is wonderful. Great job. How much did you spend up to this point?
~Arshen
~Arshen
#196
RX-7 Alumni
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TurboFB
Again, gorgeous setup. I love the way you did your OEM install, then started going on with braided lines, and some color schemes in your car. The FMIC looks good amogst other things. Your car is wonderful. Great job. How much did you spend up to this point?
~Arshen
~Arshen
#200
RX-7 Alumni
Thread Starter
Woo Hoo!!! Passed Emission Test
Yea, just got back from getting my car inspected which includes a dyno type emissions test--PASSED with no problems.
Ran from the gas station fill-up to the test with a slightly lighter premix ratio of about 175:1 (15 gal gas in 11 oz oil) which is pretty light on the premix oil. Drove low rpm < 4k) to the test just to be safe. Probably didn't need to fuss with it but this was my first sniffer test with the turbo swap. After the test I put in the rest of the oil to take me back down to 125:1 premix ratio.
I used 93 octane gas and Penzoil TC-W3 synthetic premium plus 2-stroke oil for premix.
My configuration was as follows: Stock port S4 T2 engine, Rtek 1.7 ECU with 720 secondaries, Porsche 944 FMIC, Corksport 3" --> 2-1/2"downpipe, 2-1/2" Bonez turbo-flo cat, RB Powerpulse muffler (full 2-1/2" exhaust), K+N filter. (posted cause sigs change over time)
Here's an summary of my test results:
50% hp/15 mph (rpm 1910)
-----------------------------------
HC-ppm 108 (limit 194)
CO-% 0.12 (limit 1.1)
CO2-% 14.5 (no limit)
O2-% 3.3 (no limit)
NOx-ppm 15 (limit 1504)
Dilution-% 14.62 (limit > 6)
25% hp/25 mph (rpm 2102)
-----------------------------------
HC-ppm 93 (limit 189)
CO-% 0.27 (limit 1.21)
CO2-% 14.4 (no limit)
O2-% 3.3 (no limit)
NOx-ppm 8 (limit 1374)
Dilution-% 14.67(limit > 6)
Pretty dam good results alright!
p.s. This was one BIG design goal that was successfully achieved. Gotta admit I was a little worried.
Ran from the gas station fill-up to the test with a slightly lighter premix ratio of about 175:1 (15 gal gas in 11 oz oil) which is pretty light on the premix oil. Drove low rpm < 4k) to the test just to be safe. Probably didn't need to fuss with it but this was my first sniffer test with the turbo swap. After the test I put in the rest of the oil to take me back down to 125:1 premix ratio.
I used 93 octane gas and Penzoil TC-W3 synthetic premium plus 2-stroke oil for premix.
My configuration was as follows: Stock port S4 T2 engine, Rtek 1.7 ECU with 720 secondaries, Porsche 944 FMIC, Corksport 3" --> 2-1/2"downpipe, 2-1/2" Bonez turbo-flo cat, RB Powerpulse muffler (full 2-1/2" exhaust), K+N filter. (posted cause sigs change over time)
Here's an summary of my test results:
50% hp/15 mph (rpm 1910)
-----------------------------------
HC-ppm 108 (limit 194)
CO-% 0.12 (limit 1.1)
CO2-% 14.5 (no limit)
O2-% 3.3 (no limit)
NOx-ppm 15 (limit 1504)
Dilution-% 14.62 (limit > 6)
25% hp/25 mph (rpm 2102)
-----------------------------------
HC-ppm 93 (limit 189)
CO-% 0.27 (limit 1.21)
CO2-% 14.4 (no limit)
O2-% 3.3 (no limit)
NOx-ppm 8 (limit 1374)
Dilution-% 14.67(limit > 6)
Pretty dam good results alright!
p.s. This was one BIG design goal that was successfully achieved. Gotta admit I was a little worried.
Last edited by Rex4Life; 12-08-04 at 05:15 PM.