I've been looking around, and im starting to feel like i would much rather have nitrous than a turbo. i dont feel like i need as much power as i would with a turbo, plus their finicky. plus nitrous is alot cheaper. im thinking i may sell alot of my turbo stuff. and build a nitrous kit. im thinking if i put a "y" before the stock pump, i can use either my summit pump or my walbro, depending on how much the nitrous kit needs, then have that meet with two foggers that will be on the two runners of my one piece weber manifold.

the way in understand it, i will be able to keep the car stock, with the exception of a few degrees timing, and colder plugs. then just turn on my extra fuel pump, pressure up the n02 lines, and arm the WOT switch, and go when i want. because it will be a wet setup, and i will have all of the extra fuel i need to keep it from detonating from my second pump.

what do you think??

my questions are. what exactly do the solenoids do? and would i be able to run one of each, and then split the line and have two foggers for my manifold, or do i have to split my lines, and have a fuel and n02 solenoid for each fogger. 4 solenoids all together.

 

i think you should do a lot more research on the nitrous setup. What are you gonna use to control the fuel pressure on your second fuel line? why are you gonna run your fuel lines like that? Just run it like a normal, wet kit. Check out some other car forums where nitrous is a common aftermarket route, there is a lot of info out there. Also, why don't you check out each brand name, and how they set their's up? Just some suggestions for where to look. I agree a well setup nitrous kit is a great performance gainer, and usually can be done cheaper than a turbo, but there's a reason people call a turbo the MOST efficient power adder. And, you will still need supporting mods to handle any major power gains, regardless of how you get there.

 

Why complicate the setup with more than one stage of N20? Just slap on a basic wet kit and go.

Personally I'd just skip the T off the fuel pump idea. It's just a pain IMO. Heres waht I did it works really well and you get the benefit of high octane fuel when you activate your N20. I use racing methanol. You can get it at any drag strip for around $2 a gallon. I usually bring to 5 gallon jugs and they will last a long time.

Get yourself a shurflo pump. And a 1 gallon fuel cell. The kind they use on JR. dragsters look nice. Anything will work. I've seen anything from windshield washer bottles to the 2.5 gallon gas cans. I use a 2.5 gallon gas can with a fitting epoxied to the bottom as my tank.

Then just run your self a 30amp relay to the pump. And turn the relay (pump) on with your N20 WOT micro switch. So when your N20 sol. is activated it turns on the pump. (which is adjustable anywhere from 60-120 psi). Would be a good idea to have an arming and a priming switch wired in as well.

I wouldn't even bother retarding timing if your going with a 50 shot or less. The methanol will prevent any detonation. I'd suggest removing you trailing plug wires completely if you go with a 75-125 shot, I would retard the timing then as well and go with colder plugs.

Use this chart for jetting and go with the" HI-OUTPUT" pump column. I'd set the pump at 60 psi. I'd go with 2 .22 jets and retard timing about 2 degrees and unplug the trailing plug wires.

Should give you around 70 HP jump.

Wire it similar to this. With a prime switch inline as well.



Heres some snap shots of mine...

 

ok, so maybe its more of a newb question than what i thought. but i was under the impression that a wet kit would need more fuel than whats left over from the stock pump. and i dont see how my idea is less complicated than yours. i dont really understand whats going on with yours at all. and all i would need to do is use another fpr to control the secondary fuel pressure.

i want this to be a street setup, so i dont really like the idea of pulling my plugs. i probably wont be doing any drag racing, and i dont have a race track around here.


you guys say i shouldnt add another line, but i dont really think that i can use the stock pump and run wet.

and i still dont know what a solenoid does or how it works.

 

http://g1teg.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=25621

read til your hearts content.

 

i read your thread just last night, but i have a few more questions, im still confused

 

What do you wanna know

 

what do you think about the set up i mentioned. a seperate fuel pump to run the wet system, so i can use the stock pump and setup whenever i dont want to use the nitrous. i plan on using 2 nozzles, one in each of the two main runners of the one piece wrap around manifold. could i use a one solenoid and then seperate it for each of the nozzles, or do i have to run one solenoid for each nozzle.

and also what does a solenoid do? how does it work.

 

Oye...

My suggestion was cheaper than yours and would work better. It would also work just fine on a street setup. If you understood how N20 works in a combustion rotary engine, you would understand why I'm telling you to remove the wires from the secondary plugs. You won't notice much of a change with out them anyway.

Think of a solenoid as a valve or gate. It is closed when there is no voltage going to it. Open when there is voltage going to it. So when you turn on your bottle the gas rushed to the solenoid and is stopped there. When you activate the sol. with 12v it opens the "gate" allowing N20 to rush into your intake manifold.The fuel sol. is used the same way.

Yes you can use 12 nozzles with one sol. if you wanted to.

If you don't have the basic knowledge of simple wiring diagrams and know the basic function of an N20 system then don't attempt to install it until you do.

I'm not insulting you but you'll have a blown motor in no time if you don't install the system correctly. Esp. if your trying to make complex dual fuel systems. Just read up on it. theres tons of info out there on the net to answer all your questions.

Good luck....

 

ok, i realize where your coming from, and i respect your help. and i may have come off as inexperienced.

but i dont see how if i already have an extra pump and fpr it is more work than setting up an alternate tank with a pump i dont have, and fuel i dont have access to, and when i feel like going faster that i should stop and unhook my plug wires.

i feel like i have a pretty good understanding of how the system works, ive been doing some research, and the only thing i couldnt find was how a solenoid work. i dont want to seem condescending, or that im arguing with you, thats not it at all. i really appreciate you explaining things to me. i dont understand how unplugging the wires would help. but i do understand basic wiring, and nitrous systems.

thanks again.

 

Why is it too complex. For carb set-up, running a separate fuel pump is a security measure that you dont blow the motor. you can run up to 4 but 2 is what I usually install. Thats on the primaries directly in front of the engine's intake ports.

 

well i plan on using a weber, and on the one piece wrap around, there are two barrels, then it splits to four. so i would just put them in the two before it splits. and thanks wacky

 

my 2 cents..

you unless planing on runing better fule when spraying dont need a 2nd fule pump..long as you ahve a good pump in place... like wackey said its a security measure.. but its not needed with only 1 fule in the car... you can run a 2nd fule line out of your FPR and run that to the fule solenoid. ( it should be the same fule psi as your carb) if you are only running 100 shot or less. you dont need 2 fule pumps 2 fpr. the way i said will be your best bet.

you will need to get distrabution blocks to come off your fule and nitorus solenoid's so you can run multi lines. 2 foggers, 1 nitrous solenoid, 1 fule solenoid, 4 lines, 2 disturbtion blocks,


finding colder plugs to fit in are motors is the SUCK... ive not found them yet i was on the phone for hrs with NGK and autolight

also to be on the safe side if you have msd. get a med retard box that goes in line so you can retard the motor with a switch so its fast and you dont have to stop the car.. and you dont have to drive around on a retarded car

im sure i will have more to add to this but if you have any questions ask

 

So if I'm reading this right, basically what you'll end up with is a system where NOS and methanol are delivered from their own pump, lines and resivoir/bottle, triggered by a solonoid which is only given power once a) The car is powered on b) The switch is activated and c) The WOT switch is on

Nos comes from a bottle, pressurized
Ethanol comes from a seperate supply tank with its own fuel pump
and thanks to the way you have the solonoid wired, you don't have any danger of the NOS being injected unless you're at WOT

And from what 81GSL12a said you'd need a distribution block for the injection, that I guess would sit between the carb and the intake mani?

Take off the leading plugwires (I was planning to anyway when I went to my 2nd Gen coil setup) so that you don't get the retarded spark causing problems...

Separate switch to prime the ethanol pump...

am I missing anything?

This is starting to sound interesting... I might consider a small 50-shot wet system some day.. *maybe*. I know, it's evil.... but some days you just need that extra little bit of power.

Jon

 

For better automization, run 2 foggers as I mentioned above and be sure to retard your timing 2* per 50 shot.

 

For plugs, go to O'Reillys and tell them that you want the NGK BR9EQ14 instead of the BR8EQ14 (which is stock). You can also get the plugs from Racing Beat and they list them as the same as mentioned before except they list them as street ported highway plugs. O'Reillys (or anywhere else that carries NGK plugs) should have a paper or possibly a poster that says what NGK part number corresponds to their part number. As far as I can remember, the plugs are basically the same price.

I would suggest upgrading the fuel line size at least to your pump if you decide to Tee the main line.

Also hook your pump up to your nitrous arming switch. Use a relay obviously. This way, everything turns on at the same time and you dont have to worry about forgetting something.

 

the distribution block is to run more then 1 fogger off of 1 set of solenoid's...

asfo the wot switch im not a fan of them..either your nitrous is on or its off... on a button switch you have the choice of on or off...

i am running a 4 fogger set up for best automization

 

This is a very cool thread. I love the idea.

 

lol this thread has been done so many times... most ppl will say not to use the gogo juice... but truth be told most ppl are scared!!!

as am i.. that is the reason i have 2 msd diggy 6, a stand alone fule system for the nitrous(race gas), PLX wide band O2, wet fogger port set up, 95 psi oil,... i flip the switch for my nitrous and the msd boxes retard the motor as soon as they get the 12v power from the switch

the reason for the mod/hardware i have is im scared im going ot blow up my motor

nitrous is very safe if done right.... just keep your a/f in check

 

how much fuel pressure is required if im doing a 100 shot or less.

 

fule psi is about 7 psi on a carb motor... it around the same as what the carb would be... the added pumps just insure that the psi and the fule are going to be there.. 100 psi or less you can tap off of the FPR long as you have a GOOD pump....but you want to run GOOD gas.. or build a stand alot fule system for the nitrous that can have race gas in it cha ching

 

ok, so i could either use my stock pump, and another pump seperate, or use my walbro 255 and run another line off of my mallory 4309? and what is considered good gas? would 89 ne good or 91. or is this not going to be practical at all?

 

good gas is 110+ the only tihng you are going to want to run if you have nitorus is 91+ we have 93 at are pumps its like 2.49 a gal no 91 for us woot

 

So my stupid question of the day is.... how does this integrate?

Like where does it spray in? Is it a plate under the carb? Is it a nozzle you have to drill a hole in your airbox for (I'm not a fan of that, my ISC Racing airbox already contacts the hood sometimes, I wouldn't have room above)...

I like the idea of a separate high-octane fuel supply with its own pump. Prime the pump, then hit the juice... I can't believe I'm actually seriously considering NOS, after all the NOS-bashing I usually do... I just like how this thread shows that it can be integrated into a *safe* and reliable setup if done right...

Jon

 

for the safe way you TAP the manifold for the foggers...and they inject str8 into the port... port injection .........a plate system will not work to well on some set ups.... the RB holley manifolds will puddle up the nitrous on the top of the manifold... webber manifold dont have a plate system.... and what ever you do you have to use a wet shot