ok iv had trouble with my j-109s and read i can use these gm ones
i thought ild write up how iv done it since the j-109s are 300bucks new at a auto store and the gm ones are under 20 each.

whats needed
2 wells ignition module for a 1979 chevrolet nova
8 female spade connectors
4 male spade connectors
4 .250" male spade connectors(not sure if thats correct easey to figure)
wire or choice im usin 12gauge
some heat sink grease(usally comes with the igniters)


note im not psotive this works 100% this was my resort to get my car runnin so i take no resposability and also any helpfull info or suggestions or just plane comments are fully welcome

1st step
take dizzy out take the j-109s off
i mounted the gm modules onto the dizzy )not sure its a good idea you could mount to a plate somewhere for beat heat transfer but i thought ill try it like this and see how it works)
ok for the leading as you see in the first picture it pretty much explanes it i used the mitzi screw and put it to the top hole with w&g up top but first apliy the heat sink grease to the igniter and the mounting position for assurance.

trailingi mounted w&g down bottom with the screw down bottom aswell its the only way i could get it to fit also i had to bend the tabs 90degrees also for fitting purposes
dont forget the grease

step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing


for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive

so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive

wire up make sure wires dont hit the pullys and makes sure they dont touch together or earth

well i hope ya can understand my lingo iv got a headache so i hope its clear ill be glad to anwser anything

ohh yeah most of all hehe my cars runnin better my tach actually works now i can also get my revs down under 1000 but im still tunnin as i have a stumble maybe due to my igniters or maybe just timing or a/f ratios

thanks
chris

 

ok iv had trouble with my j-109s and read i can use these gm ones
i thought ild write up how iv done it since the j-109s are 300bucks new at a auto store and the gm ones are under 20 each.

whats needed
2 wells ignition module for a 1979 chevrolet nova
8 female spade connectors
4 male spade connectors
4 .250" male spade connectors(not sure if thats correct easey to figure)
wire or choice im usin 12gauge
some heat sink grease(usally comes with the igniters)


note im not psotive this works 100% this was my resort to get my car runnin so i take no resposability and also any helpfull info or suggestions or just plane comments are fully welcome

1st step
take dizzy out take the j-109s off
i mounted the gm modules onto the dizzy )not sure its a good idea you could mount to a plate somewhere for beat heat transfer but i thought ill try it like this and see how it works)
ok for the leading as you see in the first picture it pretty much explanes it i used the mitzi screw and put it to the top hole with w&g up top but first apliy the heat sink grease to the igniter and the mounting position for assurance.

trailingi mounted w&g down bottom with the screw down bottom aswell its the only way i could get it to fit also i had to bend the tabs 90degrees also for fitting purposes
dont forget the grease

step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing


for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive

so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive

wire up make sure wires dont hit the pullys and makes sure they dont touch together or earth

well i hope ya can understand my lingo iv got a headache so i hope its clear ill be glad to anwser anything

ohh yeah most of all hehe my cars runnin better my tach actually works now i can also get my revs down under 1000 but im still tunnin as i have a stumble maybe due to my igniters or maybe just timing or a/f ratios

thanks
chris

 

ok iv had trouble with my j-109s and read i can use these gm ones
i thought ild write up how iv done it since the j-109s are 300bucks new at a auto store and the gm ones are under 20 each.

whats needed
2 wells ignition module for a 1979 chevrolet nova
8 female spade connectors
4 male spade connectors
4 .250" male spade connectors(not sure if thats correct easey to figure)
wire or choice im usin 12gauge
some heat sink grease(usally comes with the igniters)


note im not psotive this works 100% this was my resort to get my car runnin so i take no resposability and also any helpfull info or suggestions or just plane comments are fully welcome

1st step
take dizzy out take the j-109s off
i mounted the gm modules onto the dizzy )not sure its a good idea you could mount to a plate somewhere for beat heat transfer but i thought ill try it like this and see how it works)
ok for the leading as you see in the first picture it pretty much explanes it i used the mitzi screw and put it to the top hole with w&g up top but first apliy the heat sink grease to the igniter and the mounting position for assurance.

trailingi mounted w&g down bottom with the screw down bottom aswell its the only way i could get it to fit also i had to bend the tabs 90degrees also for fitting purposes
dont forget the grease

step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing


for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive

so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive

wire up make sure wires dont hit the pullys and makes sure they dont touch together or earth

well i hope ya can understand my lingo iv got a headache so i hope its clear ill be glad to anwser anything

ohh yeah most of all hehe my cars runnin better my tach actually works now i can also get my revs down under 1000 but im still tunnin as i have a stumble maybe due to my igniters or maybe just timing or a/f ratios

thanks
chris

 

Good job. Now get yourself one more HEI and another coil and try DLIDFIS. You'll be glad you did.

 

Good job. Now get yourself one more HEI and another coil and try DLIDFIS. You'll be glad you did.

 

Good job. Now get yourself one more HEI and another coil and try DLIDFIS. You'll be glad you did.

 

Jeff, I have a question on your write up regarding the DLIDFIS. I had a member PM me about it and ask how many ignitors needed to be gutted when using all J-109 ignitors. My answer was only the one on the dizzy for the leading because all it did, being gutted, was act as a pass through for the signal to the other 2 ignitors, so they could fire seperate coils.

Is that correct?

 

Jeff, I have a question on your write up regarding the DLIDFIS. I had a member PM me about it and ask how many ignitors needed to be gutted when using all J-109 ignitors. My answer was only the one on the dizzy for the leading because all it did, being gutted, was act as a pass through for the signal to the other 2 ignitors, so they could fire seperate coils.

Is that correct?

 

Jeff, I have a question on your write up regarding the DLIDFIS. I had a member PM me about it and ask how many ignitors needed to be gutted when using all J-109 ignitors. My answer was only the one on the dizzy for the leading because all it did, being gutted, was act as a pass through for the signal to the other 2 ignitors, so they could fire seperate coils.

Is that correct?

 

yes, i was also looking for that awnser also a few days ago. I wonder if it was me that asked. I found out that if there good you don't need to gut any ignitors. You only gut ignitors if there bad. You can branch off the dizzy with a couple of grinded male spade connectors and then feed the 2 ignitors. This is what I should be finishing later today.

 

yes, i was also looking for that awnser also a few days ago. I wonder if it was me that asked. I found out that if there good you don't need to gut any ignitors. You only gut ignitors if there bad. You can branch off the dizzy with a couple of grinded male spade connectors and then feed the 2 ignitors. This is what I should be finishing later today.

 

yes, i was also looking for that awnser also a few days ago. I wonder if it was me that asked. I found out that if there good you don't need to gut any ignitors. You only gut ignitors if there bad. You can branch off the dizzy with a couple of grinded male spade connectors and then feed the 2 ignitors. This is what I should be finishing later today.

 

What drunkclever said. Never gut an ignitor unless it's dead.

 

What drunkclever said. Never gut an ignitor unless it's dead.

 

What drunkclever said. Never gut an ignitor unless it's dead.

 

Yea, It was drunckclever that asked. This is finally starting to make sense for my electrically challenged brain. I may try this instead of the 2nd gen coil setup I'm running, which doesn't seem quite right.

 

Yea, It was drunckclever that asked. This is finally starting to make sense for my electrically challenged brain. I may try this instead of the 2nd gen coil setup I'm running, which doesn't seem quite right.

 

Yea, It was drunckclever that asked. This is finally starting to make sense for my electrically challenged brain. I may try this instead of the 2nd gen coil setup I'm running, which doesn't seem quite right.

 

This is the type of thread I always save for future reference. I go under 'thread tools' and select 'show printable version'. I then copy and paste the whole thing into a Wordpad document. I then copy and paste all the pictures into the same document.

Thanks blwfly

 

This is the type of thread I always save for future reference. I go under 'thread tools' and select 'show printable version'. I then copy and paste the whole thing into a Wordpad document. I then copy and paste all the pictures into the same document.

Thanks blwfly

 

This is the type of thread I always save for future reference. I go under 'thread tools' and select 'show printable version'. I then copy and paste the whole thing into a Wordpad document. I then copy and paste all the pictures into the same document.

Thanks blwfly

 

your welcome i explained as much as i could
i hope it was readalbe im gonna go play with my car some more and play with my new 10 .22 i brought for some fun

so how honeslty can we know the igniters are bad ?
just plain no spark

 

your welcome i explained as much as i could
i hope it was readalbe im gonna go play with my car some more and play with my new 10 .22 i brought for some fun

so how honeslty can we know the igniters are bad ?
just plain no spark

 

your welcome i explained as much as i could
i hope it was readalbe im gonna go play with my car some more and play with my new 10 .22 i brought for some fun

so how honeslty can we know the igniters are bad ?
just plain no spark

 

Both the FSM and Haynes have a lovely little test setup you can make to test them.