Just gently unplug them. They are just a pair of slide on spade terminals. Be sure to grasp them as close to the ends as possible, on the insulation if at all possible.

 

Yeah, looks good. I guess at one point the links were cheaper than the fuses.

I converted to the FC style a couple weeks back, though. I only have one slot left already! :-/
Those fusable links are teh sux for current flow..

 

Hey Big pimpin You can send that 2nd gen fuse box to me!

 

Matter of fact, heres the thread I started about these same things 3 years ago, when Mike told me he had been using them

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143560

~T.J.

EDIT: Just wanted to add that you at least got them. I ended up just doing something different. You did a very nice write up that should be added to FAQ and the archive also, thanks .

 

Ok, last thing. Heres the section from the FSM for the links. If you have an -SE, you have the extra block with two more links. One of them is the same as the two on the block we all have, so just get another 30 amp fuse. The other is a .5 sq link, and if .3 sq (mm?) = 30 amps (which it apparently does according to you and Mike), then .5 should equal slightly more than that, so maybe a 35 amp for your second one?

In summary, if you have an -SE, you should buy three 30 amps, one 60 amp, and one 35 amp. Someone needs to try it and let us know if it works though

~T.J.

 

I've searched all over... but can't find any conversion rates from sq to amps. But if 1.25 = 60, and 0.3 = 30, then 0.5 probably shouldn't be too far off from 35 as RMD stated.

 

i feel like a horse's petoot!

i was about to start the wiring of a Gen II fuse box into my car. this is much, MUCH easier. i may still add the Gen II box (for something else), but i'll definitely be using this newfound knowledge as well.

thanks!

 

I dont think its a measure of electrical power, I too have searched. The only thing I can come up with is sq/mm is a cross section size used to determine wire size in some places (similar to our AWG system), and by using that number you could calculate the amount of current it could carry, but I was inconclusinve during this, so I just guessed on the size, lol

~T.J.

 

Ok I have run into a problem. I was in the process of taking the fuses off of my wrecked 90 GXL and putting them on. When I did I put a "30,60,30" on and all I got was a click and nothing. I replaced them all with the wired links until I got the "main" to work with a "60" but when ever I try to put a "30" in the others spot I just get a click so I had to put the wires back on. My setup is like this now, "wire, 60, wire" it is pretty "rigged" looking if you look at it, not uniform. ..... what is going on? No the pink "30" amp fuses are not blown.

 

Wow...thats a great post.... I must admit I love the look of the 2nd gen fuse box in a 1st gen tho, but for time and money, this is a great job!

 

COnversion

 

has anyone ever gotten a part # or a name to ask for these? i looked around at NAPA but couldnt find anything that looked similar.

 

They're called fusible links, or box-type automotive fuses.
They're commonly available at most autoparts stores...

 

odd they are called fusible links aswell haha. thanks man, i'll try asking next time im at NAPA (soo... probably tommorow)

reason im asking is ive been hunting down a power drop in my car for weeks now, finally found where it was. now my battery is well above 300amps where it was at like 80 in the mornings, but there also seems to be a 10amp drop around the fusible links.. probably just corroded from age. these should help a bit.

 

No problem... if you still can't find them at your store...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...Fusible%20Link

 

Bussmann brand, I'm assuming this is a trade number and should be the same part number for other brands ie. LittleFuse...etc.

Correct me if I'm wrong...

FLF20 x 2, 3-for SE (Lt. Blue)
FLF40 x 1 (Green) (this should be a 45 amp according to the Service manual, I wouldn't use a 50 Amp)
FLF30 x 1 (Pink), For SE only

So they should be in this order from top to bottom...
20,40,20
for the extra 2 links on the SE's...
30,20

 

If anyone has bumped up there Alternator to the 2nd Higher Amp Output you might want to bump up your Main Fuse to the 60Amp (Middle One). I'm running 30-60-30 w/no problems.
One of these days I will upgrade to the 2 nd Gen Engine Fuse Box.
No biggie for now since I've installed the Painless Wire Weather Proof 7 Cirkit Boss Kit. Gives me an extra 4-Ign and 3-Constant Hot to run all my extra Goodies.
Great Info on the Buss Fuse Upgrade!
sgieldon
steve

 

I did this, simple, effective... Good stuff.

 

I am bumping this b/c it REALY neds to be archived! The only one in there is for replacing fuse blocks.

 

As stated in that pic that DwArF posted, the sq number is the cross sectional area. In metric, as these are, its in sq/mm, but in imperial, I believe its in thousands of an inch/sq. The 30/60/30 setup is probably perfectly fine, but if your unsure, go with 20/45/20.

Moderators, please archive this. This is one of the best mods I have seen in quite a while and it would make a nice addition to the archives.

 

Thanks for the info all.

 

needs to be archived

 

So I went and bought some today and it's the best mod I've done lately! I bought new head lights last week cause one of mine blew out and I was not happy with how bright the sylvania silverstars were. Then I went from the old skool to new skool fuseable links and what a difference! My lights are so much brighter. And I'm getting 13v at idle instead of it bouncing around 12v. I highly recomend you go and get these fuses TODAY!!! I used 20, 40, and a 20 because I could not find a 45. So I went with a 40 and bought a 50 Just in case the 40 blew up, but it's working fine!

 

this is great. what if we have the FD alt? do we need to use 20, 60,20?

-----archieve this------

 

looks like I'll pick some up & do this it looks loke a great idea