The factory service manual makes it look somewhat difficult and requiring specialized tools to remove and replace the rear wheel bearings. Is that so? Any tips on how to go about it? I have the axles out in preparation for painting the housing and would like to remove the brake backing plates so I can properly clean and paint them, and it appears the bearings need to be removed to do this. This is for an LSD from an '85 GSL-SE.

Thanks,
Rich

 

The bearings have to be pressed off/on. Not too difficult, if you happen to have a press. Otherwise, you will need to have a shop do the job for you.
The backing plates are also the bearing retainers, so the bearings have to be removed in order to get them off.
Anytime the bearings are removed from the axle, always replace with new.

 

I did this recently in my GSL-SE rear. Here's a few hints:

1.) The shop manual shows that the retaining collar should be cut as opposed to pressed off. That retaining collar is a tighter fit to the shaft than the inner race of the bearing, and is used to lock the bearing in place. I'd guess they are concerned about wear of the axle, and loss of interference fit between the collar and the axle.

2.) The FSM shows cutting the retaining collar on a bench grinder, but I found the angle grinder with cutoff wheel much quicker. Work cautiously to avoid damaging the axle shaft itself. I cut the collar until there is only a paper thin layer left, and then split it with a chisel.

3.) To remove the old bearing, I cut the outer race on opposite sides with the angle grinder, and removed the outer race, seals, carrier, and *****. The inner race can then be easily removed with hammer and punch.

4.) Make a note of the order of all components prior to disassembly. Triple check order prior to pressing the new bearing and collar in place, or you might be buying another set!

5.) Do both sides at the same time, the other is due as well. Also, jack the car up in a position where you have enough clear space can get both axles out at the same time.

Hope that helps a bit.

 

I've read that you can slip a large pipe over the axle to press the wheel bearings on. Haven't tried that yet though...

 

I would definitely discourage trying to knock the new bearing and collar in place with a pipe unless you are 50 miles from the nearest press. Most any machine shop or auto shops will have a press available, and should do the job for a very small fee.

 

That was me, I used a soft iron pipe to do the job. Worked fine. Is it the best way, no, but I couldn't find anyone local who could do the job for a reasonable price and a lot of places didn't even want to touch them.

Heres the post where I described the process:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/rear-wheel-bearings-question-462256/#post4761775

 

I concur on the pipe thing. I have seen people do this, and quite often it damages the lock ring to the point it no longer fits as tightly as it should. Of course, these guys were usually racers, and at the track, so they added a couple tack welds to hold the lock ring in place.

 

Like he said. Don't do the pipe thing.

Just take it to a shop who can take off the retaining collar properly and install the new bearing and collar.

When removed the old collar, I used a torch to heat it up, then chiseled it while hot until the collar split. I was concerned about the heat hurting the axle, but so far so good. Using a grinder is probably a better way.

 

Thanks for the input guys...I went the route of using a die grinder to remove the collar and bearing and will take it to a shop about 15 miles from here to have them press the new ones on. Here are some pictures of the process.

Rich

 

Rich,

Boy that looks familiar! I was just there a month or so ago. The press job should take only 5 minutes at most. Don't forget that spacer, backing plate, and retaining plate (and correct order) on reassembly.

Roger.