1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

im replacing my front hub/brake rotor

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Old 04-13-03 | 01:11 PM
  #1  
xlversatilelx's Avatar
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From: cerritos ca
im replacing my front hub/brake rotor

what do i do ?? i dont koe what to do , imma try to just figure it out but any help from you guys would be great thanks
Old 04-13-03 | 02:39 PM
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Keaponlaffen's Avatar
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From: Kamloops BC Canada
get a haynes manual
Old 04-13-03 | 04:28 PM
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you need to take the caliper off. theres a bolt in the back (i believe its a 14) and its a REAL pain in the *** to get to. then take a flat head screw driver and a hammer and lightly knock off the cap in the center. take the cutter key out, the bolt lock... thinggy.. and the nut. then just pull it off. i think thats about it....

i do agree to get a haynes manual though.
Old 04-13-03 | 04:45 PM
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From: Eastern PA
1. take out bottom caliper bolt (17mm)
2. pivot caliper up, and slide back (rest on steering arm or jack stand)
2.5 (oops i forgot) remove pads
3. remove caliper bracket by removing top and bottom bolts in the back (14mm?)
*** to access the bottom bracket bolt you may have to remove the bottom strut mount left bolt and loosen the right one a few turns to pivet the entire rotor assembly on the right bolt and gain access to the bottom bracket bolt
4. pry off dust cap on hub
5.remove cotter pin and <weird shape thing> behind the cotter pin
6. remove main nut
7. slide rotor off while keeping your thumbs holding the front washer and bearing from falling out
8. remove studs (if you have studs) with allen key and lok-tite them into new rotor
9. thouroghly wipe grease off spindle and apply new grease.
10. slide new rotor (bearings, races, and seals bearing greased already taken care of, of course) onto spindle and push all the way back
11. push washer back into place, with the notch matched up properly
12. turn on main nut and torque to 50 lbs to seat the rotor properly
13. back nut off and torque to 19-20 lbs
14. spin rotor and make sure it spins relatively freely and make sure it doesnt wobble side to side
15. add <weird shaped thing> over top of nut
16. add new cotter pin
17. tap dust cap back on
18. put caliper bracket back on
** if you needed to remove and loosen the left and right bottom strut mount bolts, put those back on
19. brake-cleen rotor back and front twice and wipe dry
20. wipe old grease off bracket slider pin and caliper bolt (smooth part)
21. re-grease both
22. put pads in place
23. put caliper back on making sure not to bind any of the rubber boots and tighten the bolt good
24. abra-ka-dabra.... you just changed a rotor on a first gen rx7

i THINK i got all the steps...
Old 04-13-03 | 04:56 PM
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From: Eastern PA
Originally posted by onepointone
you need to take the caliper off. theres a bolt in the back (i believe its a 14) and its a REAL pain in the *** to get to.
your referring to the bottom caliper bracket bolt. the actual caliper bolt is in the front and easy to access. you dont need haynes... just follow my directions step by step. i just replaced 2 today
Old 04-13-03 | 11:02 PM
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From: Kamloops BC Canada
he'll need a manual of some sort down the line though, now would be a good time to have it. Haynes manuals also have pictures, which help.
Old 04-13-03 | 11:05 PM
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From: richmond, va
Originally posted by specRX7_22
your referring to the bottom caliper bracket bolt. the actual caliper bolt is in the front and easy to access. you dont need haynes... just follow my directions step by step. i just replaced 2 today
i replaced mine to. i know waht your talking about, but the other peice needs to come off as well otherwise you cant get the rotor out. im not trying to contridict you, i just dont get how you do it without taking it off
Old 04-14-03 | 03:18 AM
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From: cerritos ca
yeah ******* kool thanks for the help it was a sucess you guys ******* rock
Old 04-14-03 | 06:01 AM
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Uh,....

I drove mine home after buying it without the dust cap and without the nut on!

Now I read that the whole wheel could have fallen off!

Funny thing is that the new rotor was sitting in the back in a pile of junk which I promptly threw out when I cleaned out the car

I looked at it last night again since I removed the calliper and it didn't come. I'll get me a little persuation and look at it again today.
Old 04-14-03 | 03:37 PM
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From: Eastern PA
Originally posted by onepointone
i replaced mine to. i know waht your talking about, but the other peice needs to come off as well otherwise you cant get the rotor out. im not trying to contridict you, i just dont get how you do it without taking it off
oh you do take it off... caliper and caliper bracket.

i was just saying that what you were referring to, which is the 14mm, is not the caliper bolt, its the bottom caliper BRACKET bolt and can be easily accessed by removing the BACK strut mount bolt and only LOOSENING the front one. this way, the entire rotor assembly can pivot on the front bolt, separating the bottom bracket bolt (which is hard to access), from the piece that makes it hard to access.

thats the best i can describe it.... just look behind the rotor... the front and back strut mount bolts go in from the bottom, you'll see what i mean.
Old 04-14-03 | 04:05 PM
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The caliper mounting brackets are 17mm. Just yank the steering wheel to one side and you should be able to get at it relatively easy. Remember to grease the bearings very well..
Old 04-14-03 | 04:20 PM
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
You may have to loosen the knuckle arm so you can get a spanner in to undo the bottom caliper bracket bolt. The other way is to fully remove the top bolt first so you can loosen the bottom one by rotating the bracket. Either way it's a bit of a bitch.
Old 04-14-03 | 09:57 PM
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Just do what I do: Get a 14mm off-set box end wrench (12-point). Then take it to a bench grinder and grind a bevel on the upper surface of the end of the 14mm box, taking off about 1/8-inch of material at the far end of the 14mm box, and tapering to about 1/2 the width of the box end. This will allow the wrench to fully seat onto the bolt so that it doesn't slip off when you apply force. With this tool, removing that bottom bracket bolt is no longer a bitch.
Old 04-14-03 | 10:57 PM
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Im having such a hard time with that bottom front bolt, i have been trying for 2 days now, i just wanna change my bearing, that this isn't budging, i wd40'd, and liquid wrenched' it too. Damn thing is just getting more and more stripped, any suggestions?
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