im replacing my front hub/brake rotor
#3
you need to take the caliper off. theres a bolt in the back (i believe its a 14) and its a REAL pain in the *** to get to. then take a flat head screw driver and a hammer and lightly knock off the cap in the center. take the cutter key out, the bolt lock... thinggy.. and the nut. then just pull it off. i think thats about it....
i do agree to get a haynes manual though.
i do agree to get a haynes manual though.
#4
1. take out bottom caliper bolt (17mm)
2. pivot caliper up, and slide back (rest on steering arm or jack stand)
2.5 (oops i forgot) remove pads
3. remove caliper bracket by removing top and bottom bolts in the back (14mm?)
*** to access the bottom bracket bolt you may have to remove the bottom strut mount left bolt and loosen the right one a few turns to pivet the entire rotor assembly on the right bolt and gain access to the bottom bracket bolt
4. pry off dust cap on hub
5.remove cotter pin and <weird shape thing> behind the cotter pin
6. remove main nut
7. slide rotor off while keeping your thumbs holding the front washer and bearing from falling out
8. remove studs (if you have studs) with allen key and lok-tite them into new rotor
9. thouroghly wipe grease off spindle and apply new grease.
10. slide new rotor (bearings, races, and seals bearing greased already taken care of, of course) onto spindle and push all the way back
11. push washer back into place, with the notch matched up properly
12. turn on main nut and torque to 50 lbs to seat the rotor properly
13. back nut off and torque to 19-20 lbs
14. spin rotor and make sure it spins relatively freely and make sure it doesnt wobble side to side
15. add <weird shaped thing> over top of nut
16. add new cotter pin
17. tap dust cap back on
18. put caliper bracket back on
** if you needed to remove and loosen the left and right bottom strut mount bolts, put those back on
19. brake-cleen rotor back and front twice and wipe dry
20. wipe old grease off bracket slider pin and caliper bolt (smooth part)
21. re-grease both
22. put pads in place
23. put caliper back on making sure not to bind any of the rubber boots and tighten the bolt good
24. abra-ka-dabra.... you just changed a rotor on a first gen rx7
i THINK i got all the steps...
2. pivot caliper up, and slide back (rest on steering arm or jack stand)
2.5 (oops i forgot) remove pads
3. remove caliper bracket by removing top and bottom bolts in the back (14mm?)
*** to access the bottom bracket bolt you may have to remove the bottom strut mount left bolt and loosen the right one a few turns to pivet the entire rotor assembly on the right bolt and gain access to the bottom bracket bolt
4. pry off dust cap on hub
5.remove cotter pin and <weird shape thing> behind the cotter pin
6. remove main nut
7. slide rotor off while keeping your thumbs holding the front washer and bearing from falling out
8. remove studs (if you have studs) with allen key and lok-tite them into new rotor
9. thouroghly wipe grease off spindle and apply new grease.
10. slide new rotor (bearings, races, and seals bearing greased already taken care of, of course) onto spindle and push all the way back
11. push washer back into place, with the notch matched up properly
12. turn on main nut and torque to 50 lbs to seat the rotor properly
13. back nut off and torque to 19-20 lbs
14. spin rotor and make sure it spins relatively freely and make sure it doesnt wobble side to side
15. add <weird shaped thing> over top of nut
16. add new cotter pin
17. tap dust cap back on
18. put caliper bracket back on
** if you needed to remove and loosen the left and right bottom strut mount bolts, put those back on
19. brake-cleen rotor back and front twice and wipe dry
20. wipe old grease off bracket slider pin and caliper bolt (smooth part)
21. re-grease both
22. put pads in place
23. put caliper back on making sure not to bind any of the rubber boots and tighten the bolt good
24. abra-ka-dabra.... you just changed a rotor on a first gen rx7
i THINK i got all the steps...
#5
Originally posted by onepointone
you need to take the caliper off. theres a bolt in the back (i believe its a 14) and its a REAL pain in the *** to get to.
you need to take the caliper off. theres a bolt in the back (i believe its a 14) and its a REAL pain in the *** to get to.
#7
Originally posted by specRX7_22
your referring to the bottom caliper bracket bolt. the actual caliper bolt is in the front and easy to access. you dont need haynes... just follow my directions step by step. i just replaced 2 today
your referring to the bottom caliper bracket bolt. the actual caliper bolt is in the front and easy to access. you dont need haynes... just follow my directions step by step. i just replaced 2 today
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#9
Uh,....
I drove mine home after buying it without the dust cap and without the nut on!
Now I read that the whole wheel could have fallen off!
Funny thing is that the new rotor was sitting in the back in a pile of junk which I promptly threw out when I cleaned out the car
I looked at it last night again since I removed the calliper and it didn't come. I'll get me a little persuation and look at it again today.
I drove mine home after buying it without the dust cap and without the nut on!
Now I read that the whole wheel could have fallen off!
Funny thing is that the new rotor was sitting in the back in a pile of junk which I promptly threw out when I cleaned out the car
I looked at it last night again since I removed the calliper and it didn't come. I'll get me a little persuation and look at it again today.
#10
Originally posted by onepointone
i replaced mine to. i know waht your talking about, but the other peice needs to come off as well otherwise you cant get the rotor out. im not trying to contridict you, i just dont get how you do it without taking it off
i replaced mine to. i know waht your talking about, but the other peice needs to come off as well otherwise you cant get the rotor out. im not trying to contridict you, i just dont get how you do it without taking it off
i was just saying that what you were referring to, which is the 14mm, is not the caliper bolt, its the bottom caliper BRACKET bolt and can be easily accessed by removing the BACK strut mount bolt and only LOOSENING the front one. this way, the entire rotor assembly can pivot on the front bolt, separating the bottom bracket bolt (which is hard to access), from the piece that makes it hard to access.
thats the best i can describe it.... just look behind the rotor... the front and back strut mount bolts go in from the bottom, you'll see what i mean.
#12
You may have to loosen the knuckle arm so you can get a spanner in to undo the bottom caliper bracket bolt. The other way is to fully remove the top bolt first so you can loosen the bottom one by rotating the bracket. Either way it's a bit of a bitch.
#13
Just do what I do: Get a 14mm off-set box end wrench (12-point). Then take it to a bench grinder and grind a bevel on the upper surface of the end of the 14mm box, taking off about 1/8-inch of material at the far end of the 14mm box, and tapering to about 1/2 the width of the box end. This will allow the wrench to fully seat onto the bolt so that it doesn't slip off when you apply force. With this tool, removing that bottom bracket bolt is no longer a bitch.
#14
Im having such a hard time with that bottom front bolt, i have been trying for 2 days now, i just wanna change my bearing, that this isn't budging, i wd40'd, and liquid wrenched' it too. Damn thing is just getting more and more stripped, any suggestions?
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM