Hello,
I am having some trouble getting my remote start working on my 89 Turbo II. I have the alarm side working fine, arms/disarms, lights flash, etc. The remote start doesent work then the car flashes the parking lights 7 times, which says that manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized. When I try the procedure to enable the remote start it does nothing.

Here are my connections:

Remote Start Input- 5 pin connector

Black/white Neutralsafety switch-hooked up and tested
Violet and white tach signal- hooked up at trailing coil
Brown- Brakelight shutdown- hooked up and tested
Gray- Hood Pin- hooked up and tested
Blue/white- status/defroster output- not hooked up

Heavy Gauge 10 Pin Connector

H3/1 Pink Ignition 1 Input- Hooked up to Ignition wire yellow/black the one that does not lose power when the starter runs

H3/2 Red and white 30A Fused ignition 2/flex relay pin 87 input- not hooked up

H3/3 Orange Accessory Output- not hooked up

H3/4 Violet- Starter Output Hooked up

H3/5 Green- Starter Input Hooked up

H3/6 Red 30a fused ignition 1 relay input hooked up to constant 12V

H3/7 Pink and white ignition 2 flex relay output not hooked up

H3/8 Pink and black 87a of ignition 2/flex relay not hooked up

H3/9 Red and Black 30a fused accessory/starter relay input hooked to 12V constant

I am just wondering if I have something wired wrong, I dont have anything wired to the parking brake.
Is there a key sense wire that needs to be hooked up?

 

Not being familiar with this remote start unit, the various connections that you list are not that meaningful, but what does strike me is the question on how the clutch pedal *not* being depressed precludes starting and how this remote unit is designed to bypass that cluch pedal mechanism.
So, I wonder *how* the clutch pedal being depressed completes a circuit to the switch and starter and *how* the remote start unit completes a circuit to the starter, because it sounds like there is no power circuit from the battery to the starter. Could it be a miswired relay?

 

How is your starter wires hooked up? You cut the starter wire and hooked key end to input and car end to output right? And you need to find a way to bypass the clutch pedal. The hackjob way is to cut it and tie them together. The better way is to use a "ground while running" wire off the remote start and then figure out if the clutch pedal is postive are negative trigger. If negative, attach the ground while running too it, if positive use a relay.

Most cars are positive.

O, and hook up the accessory, you do need it.

 

the starter output wire is connected to the starter wire after the clutch switch, so that is the bypass.

 

So does the car crank just not fire?

Did you test the wire after the clutch to show power when you start with clutch in, or does just have power with clutch in.

The starter wires are designed like that as an anti-grind or starter-kill circuit. So you can't use the starter output as the clutch bypass unless it shows power as stated above.

This is a very easy car to put an auto start in so the options as to why its not working are going to be little dumb mistakes. No offense to your intelligence as I make dumb mistakes too, not as much as I use to, but I still do.

Also, where are you getting the tach from? Make sure thats right as well.

 

The output wire for the starter coming from the remote start unit is connected to the starter wire after the clutch switch so the clutch pedal does not need to be depressed for the remote start to work.

It does not crank or try to at all.

The tach signal is the yellow and blue wire on the bottom of the trailing coil that has a female connector ready for the tap.

The alarm has a sequence of steps to do before the remote start is initialized,

Manual transmission
If the vehicle has manual transmission the proper steps must be followed
before leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is
disabled.
1. Put the transmission in neutral.
2. Press on the vehicle’s foot brake.
3. Apply the emergency brake.
4. Release the vehicle’s foot brake.
Note: Pressing the brake again after this step will disable the
remote start feature.
5. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.
6. The parking lights will flash confirming that the remote start is
active.
7. Turn off the ignition (the car should stay running when key is
turned off).
8. Exit the vehicle.
9. Arm the alarm (the vehicle should shut off when arming the
system).
You can now remote start the vehicle. If a door is opened or if the
alarm is triggered before the next remote start activation the system
will not remote start.

Here is a link to the manual

http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2V-2008-02.pdf


My only other thought was in part of the sequence they ask you to pull the ebrake, but the e-brake is not connected in any way to the alarm so how is it supposed to know that I have pulled the e-brake? I dont even see a spot to connect an input like that to the alarm?

 

There should be a wire that is park brake monitor. That needs to be hooked up. Look in the installation manual not user manual. And I don't think that the way you have the clutch hooked up will work. I will check 2morrow when i go to work though.

You can get tach at the computer to on the passenger side but that should work.

 

Yep, what wire are they suggesting for a parking brake sensor wire. On the old DEI remote starts it was the 2nd brown wire.

 

Here are the wires taken from the installation manual, I cant find anything in there relating to the parking brake connection. I can email the manual if you would like to take a look at it, the file was too big to post on here.



Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH -ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector
H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2 LIGHT GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/3 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
H2/7 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/8 BROWN/BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT

There are three harness connections relative to remote start function, including
the heavy gauge and input and output harnesses.
Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
2 RED/WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
9 RED/BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
10 N/C N/C

Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN WIRE
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER

Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT

Note: Wires 1 - 4 on the remote auxiliary outputs are wired to the (-) triggers for
the onboard remote start relays and are not diode isolated. If wiring these wires
directly to the vehicle you must place a 1-amp diode in line to prevent feedback
from the vehicle.

 

I would have to say either the neutral safety switch would be the best bet. Even though i doubt it. Set the car to auto mode and try to start it first. If it won't then try that.

As for what wires you should have hooked up here is what i see.

H1-3,5,6 or 8,11
H2-1,8
H3-1,3,4,5 and the constants
5-pin connector input-1?,2,3,4,5 if you want
5-pin output-none

Also with the key on, power the clutch wire you have the starter wire hooked to, if it is a start wire then the car should start

 

The wires I have hooked up are:

H1- 1 2 3 5 7 8 11

H2- 1

H3- 1 3 4 5 6 9

Remote Start Input- 1 2 3 4

Remote Start Output- None

Yes powering that wire does engage the starter so that is not the problem either.

 

If you ground the small purple (violet) wire in the 5 pin, does the car try and crank? It should. If it doesn't you don't have the starter relay violet hooked up correctly.

 

Yes the instant I put ground to that violet wire on the output harness the starter begins cranking, do you see anything that should be hooked up that isnt?

 

As the car sits I dont have any wires connected to the remote start auxillary harness, so when you say "If it doesn't you don't have the starter relay violet hooked up correctly." am I supposed to have wires connected to it?

 

I dont understand why you need negative outputs for your heavy gauges, or the heavy gauge inputs.

According to my compustar diagrams you need:
Starter, accessory, battery, ignition. Car will start
Park brake, park lights, and brake switch for safety features.

Thats it, so I guess could you link to the install manual or email it to me?

And you should have some heavy gauge wires from the remote start that go to a constant source. Again not questioning your intelligence, just covering all the basics.

 

That tells us that you have the starter wire hooked up and on the correct side of the clutch switch and that the factory starter kill is not active.

In other words it rules out most wiring issues.

Turn the manual mode off. If the Neutral safety wire is hooked up, you shouldn't be able to start the car with the tranny in gear anyway.

See if it starts then.

 

The heavy gauge wires are outputs (except the red ones- which is the power into the relays). The relays are activated by neg triggers from the alarm/remote starter.

 

(black/white) Neutral Safety Switch
Connect this wire to a ground source if installing this unit in an automatic transmission
vehicle. If this unit is being installed in a manual transmission vehicle
then connect it to the emergency brake wire. This input MUST rest at ground in
order for the remote start system to operate.
Important! Always perform the steps outlined in Safety Check section to verify
that the vehicle cannot be started in ANY drive gear and that the override switch
is functioning properly.

Straight from the manual man. Hook up to ebrake and you should be good to go.

 

Gotcha, just wasn't thinking.

 

Nah, our cars have Neutral safety wires. The DEI black/white should be hooked up to the Neutral wire that comes from the tranny and goes to the ECU.

NOT the parking brake.

With it hooked up to the correct wire (Mazda green/black (pin G on the ECU) ground on it when the tranny is in Neutral) the car can never be started in gear even if someone forces the shifter into gear without touching the clutch.

Unlike the parking brake hook up. Where someone can bump the shifter into gear and kill someone.

This is how the unit should be wired and why I was saying to put it into auto tranny mode.

 

When I switched it to auto tranny mode everything worked! And I think I like it better like this because I dont have to do that shutdown sequence when I leave the car parked, I have a turbo timer in the car so when I stop it is always in neutral with the parking brake on. Thanks for all your guys help.

 

i'm also wiring the 5701 but to the the FD
didn't wanted to start another topic for that. only need to know for the heavy gauge wires.

so you have these wires from the 5701

1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
2 RED/WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY

wire 2 and wire 6 to battery ?

and the key ignition wires (6)

light blue
dark blue
black/white
black/red
black/green
black/yellow


thanks