I tried this and it did not work. But when I tried dip7 it acted as yours is.

 

The chip on my JimStim is marked V2.0.3. Could this be firmware-related?

 

mine just has 2 white dots on the chip. My Jimstim is version 1.4.

 

Please post an msq and composite log. Also, make sure all noise filters are off.

Ken

 

MSQ attached; I'm still playing around on the bench. It'll be another week at minimum before it goes in the car. I've gone over the ignition settings to see if I made a mistake (and I might have).

I'll post a composite log tonight.

Sensors and injectors that will be used in the build include:
Denso yellow RX8 secondary injectors as primaries
Bosch EV14 650cc as secondaries
Motorcraft CX1228 Throttle Position Sensor for a mid-90s Ford F-150
GM water and air temperature sensors
NGK Powerdex AFX Wideband O2
Stock CAS with IGUS Chainflex CF10, 20 AWG Shielded Control Cable grounded to ECU side.

While I've setup the MegaSquirt for the injector sizes, I haven't calibrated for the sensors yet.

 

Composite logger. Runs to 5400 RPM with JimStim dips set 5 and 8 on. Indicated voltage via TunerStudio is 10.90V, using standard wall-wart purchased from DIYAutoTune.

 

I didn't get a chance to mess with this. Any luck cluosborne?

 

No change. I'm doing initial startup next week.

I could guess at what's wrong, but you're talking to a guy who found out that the fault in my car's factory fuel injection system was mechanical and not electrical.

 

Any luck so far? I still haven't plugged my MS in as I decided to redo my wiring. The last thing I have to do is wire up the CAS and a few other incidentals.

 

No change. It's moot now as I installed the MS3 into the car a few days ago. I'm getting close to startup--I got delayed by a coolant leak in the water pump housing.

On the plus side, I've done some tests and it all looks good so far. The Ford TPS responds, the sensors are calibrated... either it starts or it doesn't.

Outside of tuning, the only possible problem I might run into is with the CAS (I'm using a 4-conductor cable with a tinned copper braided shield that is grounded in one place). But, everything is grounded to one solid place with new connectors and wire.

 

Good luck with starting it up. I finished my wiring today. I should be starting soon as well. Let me know how it goes.

 

Starts, runs a few seconds, then dies. As I'm still waiting for a local shop to get in the exhaust flanges to finish my test pipe, I ran without an exhaust. Plus, I had a coolant leak at the water pump housing that I've (hopefully) fixed.

 

I forgot that when I store the car, I wrap the air filter with a plastic bag. It was still on when i started it up. Whoops.

 

LOL sounds like something I'd do.

 

I have gone through all the checks, now I am cranking and only seeing ~200 rpms. Hard to tell if it is only really 200 rpms or it is the same issue carrying over.

 

The cable you use, is it shielded with the braided shield grounded at one end (preferably to the same ground as the megasquirt grounds?). The RPM signal itself, is it steady or jumping around?

 

I think my starter might just be on its way out.

http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/...=VIDEO0058.mp4

 

My starter sounded that slow when it was going out, put a new one in and suprised the heck out of me when it spun over fast.

 

Ive got a couple extras maybe I will give them a shot.

 

A bad starter can cause enough noise to keep the engine from starting as well.

Ken

 

good to know