Gryffinwings

iTrader: (3)

Looking at piecing together a turbo setup which I am already working on. But I figured I'd find a OEM turbo something bigger then, the s4 and S5 turbos. I was figuring that the truck diesel turbos would be a good decent size to work with. Thanks for any input. The idea behind my build will be cheap and reliable.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

first off cheap and reliable NEVER go together. you need to pick one or the other. now for some reason i dont think if will be sensible to put a turbo diesel turbo on the rx7. just dont think you would be able to get tht thing to spool. theres a slight difference in the exhaust output of a turbo diesel and a 13b.

Gryffinwings

iTrader: (3)

Yes but typically, the 13b has a strong exhaust pulse, which is why I believe a diesel turbo would work. Also other OEM turbos are pretty small on other cars, so it's not really a good idea to work with those, because they run out of steam pretty quick.

Also it's cheap, reliable, and power, you choose 2 not all 3.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

well if you really want to go ahead and give it a try. but if i was you i'd look at getting something else. if you want to use an oem one why not try something like a turbo off a suby or something similar. its not always about size but efficiency. the stock s5 turbo is good to like 10-12 psi? and something like a turbo off an sti is good up to like 20+psi. something tells me there would be mad lag off a diesel, if you could get it to spool.

now just remember anywhere cheap comes into play reliablity is lost. just do a bit of looking around on this forum. you'll see where cutting corners gets you.......

MadScience_7

I have a site bookmarked that has compressor efficiency maps for tons of different turbos. The bookmark is at home though so I'll have to post it later. As far as the turbine goes, it seems like a popular A/R is 1.15, so something around there should work fine.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

^ Talking about this one?

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/TURBO/tmodels.html

hiroichi1515

iTrader: (17)

From my experience the "cheap" route has always been the most expensive. As I have leaned from Brian D. Cain, if you do it right the 1st way around, you will save time and money.

Gryffinwings

iTrader: (3)

So how do you calculate a/r, it's not listed in that list.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

That list is for wheel size, not housing size. Most rotaries use turbos around 1.0 A/R on the turbine side. The stock turbos use 1.0 A/R turbine housings.

Calculating A/R and trim: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ze-r-trim.html

Just keep in mind that A/R is just a ratio. Different size turbos can still have the same A/R values, but be dramatically different in size.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You're in the wrong section. Look in the single turbo section of this forum. The Holsets are well known to work, although Holsets aren't nearly as cheap as they used to be. Use an H1C (many of which do not have an internal wastegate) or an HX35W off an early 2000s manual transmission Cummins Dodge Ram. For the HX35 weld the internal wastegate shut and go external. It is a T3 divided flange, usually with 12 cm^2 hotside iirc. You will need an aftermarket manifold. Also look at Holset H1E/HX40 turbos. They are T4 flanged typically with hotsides at least 16 or 18cm^2.

There are also a lot of other random diesel turbos. Look into Schwitzer/Borg Warner turbos off Caterpillar or Mack diesel engines, like this one (hotside may be a little small): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MACK-...ehicleQ5fParts or this one: http://www.enginessuperstore.com/ite...d=170502447599 . you will be on your own as far as figuring out fitment. yeah it's a bit of a crap shoot but why not be a pioneer? Just know what you're getting into.

For those of you saying "don't be cheap" well that's not the issue, if the turbo is in decent shape. OEM turbos last a long time--Garrett is an OEM manufacturer, remember? And so is Schwitzer (owned by Borg Warner), Holset, etc. It's just a matter of physically making the turbo work and hoping that it is decently suited to the engine. These aren't knockoff crap turbos he's talking about. They just happen to be used in big trucks or heavy machinery originally.

Gryffinwings

iTrader: (3)

Thanks a lot for the information so far, I thought this would fine to be in this section since it was going into an NA 2nd gen RX7. Keep the knowledge coming if there is any more thanks.

And if anybody thinks this should be moved, please do.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

OEM truck turbos are also a good source for a rebuildable core. Even if the exhaust housing is too small (common on diesel turbos), you can bring it to a local turbo rebuild shop and have them swap in appropriate wheels and housings. You still save a lot of money over buying a brand new unit.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

that makes sense , depends on the stuff your doin my drug is caffeine, i was just thinking of boost creep an its effect sorry for the previous irrelevancy

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

In reference to the STI/eclipse/srt4 turbos....all boost is NOT created equal. I'll take a GT35@10psi over a SRT4 turbo @15 psi any day. PSI is a measure of how "hard" a turbo blows, not the volume of air it moves. What moves more water a squirt gun or a garden hose? which is at a higher pressure?.........................exactly.

Had a buddy go the diesel turbo route, it was a decent amount of work and he didn't end up too impressed w/ the results (and he worked in a race shot, so labor was cheap).

Aaron brought up a good point about the rebuildable cores, grab a blown one for cheap, research the appropriate turbine and housing for your power goals and get a shop to build you something you know will get you to where you want to be

Gryffinwings

iTrader: (3)

This is some great information so far.

MadScience_7

Actually, it was this one at Squirrel Performance

Use 2.6L displacement for the volumetric flows to be correct.

Jross427

iTrader: (13)

john deere tractor turbo, garrett t04e 57 trim .60 A/R compressor, .96 A/R turbine with a p trim exhaust wheel iirc. its perfect, put it at 16 psi for max potential. i know this cause i have one sitting in my garage got it for $75 from a truck shop, rebuild kit is $60 so ive spent $135 seems pretty cheap to me. like mentioned before most oem turbo's you can pull out of a junkyard are to small (some exceptions but you must have a rabbits foot stuck up your ***). but t04's from garrett and the companies listed above are a safe bet. hell even our stack turbos are technically garretts!

Gryffinwings

iTrader: (3)

True most OEM turbos are too small for the rotary. As I said earlier I would be taking a turbo from a turbo diesel truck, which happen to have rather substantial engines, I think I've seen nothing less then 5 liters for most dodge or ford diesels or similar.